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There seems to be some confusion here. Some people talking about pulling an auto tail housing and others talking about an 833 housing. The auto housing can be pulled un the car by removing the crossmember (may have to remove exhaust), speedo housing and gear and then the flat plate. Remove the 6...

Here are the ones that I made several years ago. Adjustable at both ends, they work awesome and are so much better than the stock sloppy linkage.

Thanks all, I have sold this to a chevy guy. General consensus is that it is in fact early firebird.

I just sold a near complete set up, all parts needed to be gone through, no flywheel or clutch with two transmissions, a cast iron a body OD and an aluminum van / truck OD for 1600 Canadian.

No, is that where it is? I have struggled getting the handles out before but will try, thanks!

No, that is a good idea though, thanks!

Bump

Thanks, but those are both different. The first one isn't round, the second one doesn't have the twist that mine does. Mine angles to the pass side but has a twist built into the stick, towards the driver.

This summer I acquired this hurst shifter. The problem is I have no idea what it is from. The guy that I got it from thought that it was first generation firebird. I have searched the internet and have not been able to verify that, and cannot find pictures of anything remotely similar. Based...

The tailshaft pads are all in the same location, relative to the engine/ bellhousing split line on all 727, 904 and long / short 833s and OD 833s. Either you have the transmission crossmember flipped around, or the mount in the crossmember backwards, or bad mounts (engine and or transmission)...

As was asked before, what is wrong with the picture? The small gear slides to engage the flywheel when the starter is energized. Same starter for manual and auto, big block, small block and slant six with a couple of exceptions.

If you do re use it be sure to check the pilot diameter to crankshaft run out, the bell may be distorted.

LOL.... i had a rusty hang ten, the rustiest A body that I have personally ever seen. It was however an E58 360 HP car. It really was not economical to fix, so it became a donor for my rust free slant six bench seat crap brown Dart Sport. I painted it the hang ten spinnaker white, but couldn't...

This is an automatic console, uncut, used in a four speed installation. The top plate is also an auto part that I cut to the same opening dimensions of a four speed top plate, then trimmed with some extruded aluminum and fit with a four speed boot. I have seen several true four speed console...

I found two pics of mine, before I sold it. Here you go.

One more note, with the hurst console shifter, when in second or fourth, the upper part of.the shifter handle from the ball to the first bend is nearly horizontal.

If you search on the internet "68 dart console shifter" or "69 dart console shifter" or the same with cuda or barracuda you will find lots of pics.

FWIW, myself and hemissdart have already stated in this thread that yours looks 100% correct. I will try to dig up pics of mine to show you.

Have you looked at your engine and transmission mounts to see if the are worn out and collapsed? You likely have the old biscuit style unless someone has changed them to spool. I have seen spool ones completely debonded and failed allowing the engine to suit an inch or more lower than factory...

Yours looks right to me. I transplanted a 68 hurst console shifter and console into my Dart Sport, it was exactly as yours is. Unfortunately I dont have a pic on this phone to show you. Mine also shifted great, and was very easy to powershift. About the only thing that will change the...

Yep. 75 Dart Sport with a 73 Dart grill.

And back to the topic, LOL. I had a centerforce dual friction in my 408 Dart. I think the centerforce centrifugal weight thing is a gimmick, but the clutch worked great and never slipped. Plus it is a diaphragm style so the pedal forces are light which is easier on your wife and the clutch...

You may want to fit a lighter..... much lighter spring to the clutch pedal to completely unload the throw out bearing when the clutch is engaged. I have used the jack hold down spring from the trunk before with good results.

Diaphragm

Borg and beck.

Pull the lower inspection cover and look at the throw out bearing. If you see three fingers from the clutch contacting it, it is borg an beck. If you see a series of thin fingers (like 20) it is a diaphragm style.

That kind of looks, to me at least, like you have a modern diaphragm style clutch (which requires little effort to actuate and you must remove the pedal over center spring) with the clutch pedal over center spring still installed. The spring pulls the pedal to the floor once you move the pedal...

Long tail shaft? Looks like a 1979 casting date in one of your pics. It is probably a 1980 truck / B van aluminium overdrive.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1994,dakota,5.2l+v8,1087589,transmission-manual,clutch+pilot+bearing,1964 I believe that they are all available still. I have used the roller that firs the register a few times without issue, perhaps there is a burr or some damage on your input shaft?

Is the new lube synthetic? If it is and you have the original or old style syncro rings it will not like synthetic .