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He said he took the m/c loose from the booster. Has to be the master cylinder.

Though not correct I have used the press out studs method also. Just because I have trashed a few drums with a press trying to take out the hubs with studs installed. Then I mike the holes and buy new knurled studs. I use this as an oppurtunity to rid myself of left handed studs.

posting to save this thread so I can find it later

Small sharp metal chisel and a hammer. Cut the heads off the pins.

Cant add nothing to that.Make sure to use a disc brake grease.

Whats the reason for this?

I think cars with the master cylinder low need these because they arent purged of air by gravity.

Yours appears to be a one size fits all wheel cylinder. Either that or someone ground the top and bottom to fit the rectangle.You do need the early one so the hose fits.Or order the later rectangle ones and change hoses.

Search ebay for field service manual for your car.

two words. Service manual. If simple tasks like this puzzle you you need one.Not being a smart *** but there is a plethora of knowledge in there.

They come in Help red packages

Looks like you just need a coupling. Should be a home run to the rubber hose to the axle.Maybe the after market is two peices in case you want to install an adjustable proportioning valve.

I put a vacuum hose on the bleeder and submerse the end into a glass jar with fluid in it. Then I crack the bleeder and pump till the bubbles stop and then retighten the bleeder.

try rock auto

no.

depends on ball joint size,dont think so unless you use 73 up spindles.

This is what I was trying to say in post 4 , calipers flipped and bleeders up

Why would anyone be against saving money?

Couldnt you flip the calipers side to side and use top mounting hoses. Are your bleeders on top in your configuration? If not I see a problem.

Think I have a set of 10 inch spindles and backing plates off of a 71 dart .then you could use your lower ball joint and get drums, shoes and hardware. Let me know if you want me to dig for them My dart was sbp but the drums arent worth shipping.

Chill dude, hes talking about drilled axles not the link.

bet the wheel cylinders shot and the cups are stuck in the bore

Do you mean front or back of spindle?

wow 30 years doing my own brakes and i did not know this.

I should have a pair. Will check tommorrow. Drum brake hubs only?

Could you use a metal chisel and cut the heads off the pins that hold the shoes to the backing plate and pull the drum off with the shoes.

To determine if shoes are wrong or rite just set them in the drum one at a time. then check if the lining touches the drum surface top to bottom.9 and 10 inch radii are different. 10 inch in 9 inch drum will hit top and bottom and not center.

When they start grinding you just spent another hundred at least for rotors.

Squealing like a metal to metal sound may indicate that the tattle tails are rubbing the rotor. These are to let you know the pads are worn out before the rotors are damaged.the sooner brake repairs are done the less they cost. Putting repairs off damages additional components and puts you at...

Open the bleeder screws on the calipers. Stick a large screw driver between the caliper and rotor and pry out till you have some slack. pistons in calipers are probably stuck. Really simple.