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I have a pair of those I’m not going to use.

Well, frankly I pretty much did a internet search. Bergman was the only one that popped up. I wasn’t really sold on the “L” shaped tabs that most bars come with. I also did a search on FABO. This thread didn’t come up until yesterday and after I posted another thread under the general. Going to...

Thought I’d resurrect this thread. Now have a 66 Valient. I have the Bilstien shocks but also need a sway bar. I ordered some sway bar tabs from Peter Bergman. Got them today. Now trying to figure out fitment.

Anyone tell me what this column came out of. Appears to be the length of an early A body but something isn’t right about that

I've seen this topic brought up over the years concerning rear sway bars on an A body, jus want to get an updated prospective. Pro/Cons, who here on this forum has experience with rear sway bars on an A body especially running autocross? Interested to hear from the guys who run street/track cars.

Contact John Calvert

Rode in a high end B Body several weeks ago. Really nice car that was well prepared. It had an Altercation setup. A little too much road noise and rough for my liking. Not that it's a bad setup. With that said I had a complete Firmfeel suspension on my 71 Roadrunner. Had 1.05 t Bars and...

Firm Feel

Not sure what he's done or who he's talked to. It's his gig so I'm sure he'll work it out.

Yeah and it's still all good

Steering is binding, not able to steer fully to the left or right. It's a big block car. He's even tried shims. Makes it worse

Call me old school but unless you are doing a resto mod I'd stay with a modified Mopar suspension. Cheaper way to go, maintain the stock look and you can spend that money elsewhere. MaMopar put a lot of R&D into that suspension. Oh, FWIW, buddy of mine has an altercation and has been constantly...

Just because there's no bluing doesn't mean there's no damage. If the bearing got excessively hot I'd replace it. Wheel bearings is one place I would not go on the cheap.

Good read for someone getting into chassis mods. Another subject not mentioned is running up the lower control arm. Jim Lusk has a YouTube vid showing how to do that.

Well if you really need another 67 A body idler I have an NOS I'd be willing to part with.

I used a Timpkin bearing. I can't remember the part number however find a place that sells industrial bearings, take a measurement of the stock bearing and they should come up with a replacement that will fit both OD in terms of the housing and ID which covers the shaft. I'll look around and...

Some with torque boxes on all four corners, some with them on the front, some just on the rear. There have been examples where there were torque boxes on the right front and left rear and visa versa. Some examples came without. There have been examples where torque boxes were installed on a...

Just curious, does your GTS have torque boxes on all 4 corners of the sub frame?

I believe that's the correct alternative to the 893 pan.

No, the pitman on a big block A body is specific to that application. The idler is the same for big and small blocks. If this is a real GTS it should remain correct with 893 pan. Hard to find and pricy but they are out there. Dick at Firm Feel will probably have an answer for the op.

Yes, that was going to be my next suggestion. In looking at that pan it doesn't look like the correct C body pan to use. There's a pan on eBay with a longer and deeper indentation

Mobile is correct, the pitman needed is specifi to the Bigblock. Idler arm is the same. There's an old thread on FABO. just type in your search engine "Abody big block pitman arm". There is a distinct differerance between the two pitman arms. Another site refers to a year one part number WY433...

Yes, give them a call. When you do ask to speak with Dick. He's a wealth of knowledge. All of their R&D has been on the track and has been proven.

Good thing that didn't happen at Willow Springs. Last time I saw your car you were running the injected Magnum motor. Any recent changes?

I'm looking at going another inch

Does anyone here happen to by chance know the diminsions of the ubolt for the 7 1/4" rear? Width, length, nut size etc. I've been told 2 1/2" but that seems a little narrow

Yes, the drive pin must come out. You'll need a punch to drive it out.

Give John Calvert a call, nice guy. He will give you information on what you'll need. He's really up on what works for Mopars.

I thought that car looked familier. That is a rad car for sure. pretty much a test bed for the A body kit. isn't it powered by a 360?

Who makes a good front early A away bar? I have a PST bar and it's way too wide, hits my calipers.