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I just pulled out the factory tach to clean it up and adapt the solid circuit update board. I noticed the terminal on the back (on the right in the photo) does not have an insulator type washer on it like the terminal on the left has. Does that mean it is missing the washer or was it never...

A mom & pop old school local auto parts store (now closed permanently) sold me a set of uniset points that i was told will fit our '65 Valiant. I have not tried to install them yet (I have my doubts they will work-no part number on them-only says "heavy duty Mylar USA" on the butt end of the...

Back when I was studying Auto Tech at community college (circa 1973) I don't recall seeing a point set with the condenser and points as an integrated unit. I was sold these set as being compatible with our '65 Abodies. However, now that I take a second look at it, I wonder if there should be a...

I would like to know if a company manufactures (or anyone clever has fabricated) a way to piggyback onto an old style glass fuse? I just want to tap into the instrument/dash panel illumination so that my aftermarket oil pressure gauge can be read after dark. I just don't like splicing into...

I can see the pin for the high beam light shorted out on the pot metal underneath it. Then I tested the mini-bulbs and they are all new and filaments intact and separately they work. However, when installed on the circuit board It seems only one dash light will work. Cleaning did not help...

Update: Underhood I found no defects in the area of the buckets. I did find a tiny bare metal chafing a couple on inches where it comes out of the bulkhead connector, but the bare spot was not touching anything (looks like it had become pinched somehow in the past). I put some tape on it (see...

With the headlights removed, same condition as before: high beam selection shows max ampere discharge on dash gauge.

See post #7. The first thing I did was substitute the floor dimmer switch from my other '65 Plymouth known to be working satisfactorily.

Reader beware: This comparison I found online may or may not be accurate.

Update: I decided to clean the headlamp ground wire connections before moving on. Dremel tool and mini brass brush on the headlamp bucket and Evaporust on the wire ends. I found one headlamp was the newer halogen type, and the other was the conventional filament.

Update: With the headlamp switch disconnected and removed from the dash, I started the vehicle and ran it for 15 minutes. The ammeter worked fine (shows more charge at first then less charge), as well as the brake lights, horn, front and rear turn signals, dome light. My multimeter is on the...

I did purchase another NOS switch, in storage around here somewhere.

Update: I "borrowed" the working high beam switch from my '65 Barracuda and the same thing happened. In fact, not sure but I believe the low beams might have flickered off this time as well. I know I saw the ammeter go full overboard to the discharge side again. The turn signals, horn, and...

I have low beam, but when pressing the floor switch for high beam the headlights go out and the ammeter goes to full discharge. I wonder where the first place to look would be? Thank you.

I have dual horns on a Valiant Signet. One horn is fine, but the other sounds sick even after I try to "adjust" it with that knurled knob thing. Maybe I will take it apart to inspect it now that I know it can be done!

I'm running a Pertornix on a '72 Satellite using the factory ballast resistor. I am not recommending this, but I don't seem to have a problem with it on the factory stock 318 wired that way.

OK, I made two more tests: A) Turned the head lamp switch to "parking light" position and crawled underneath to wiggle the dash light closest to the driver's door. Result: nothing doing. B) Removed the bulb/socket in test number "A" above and swapped it with the turn signal indicator...

Exactly, the driver's seat is out now. I don't know if the bulb holders are original or not.

Most all the on-line discussions about electrical glitches eventually end without the original poster ever resolving the problem and leaving the reader with the same/similar problem still without a solution. So my intention is to follow this thing through to the end. Regarding the '65 Plymouth...

It's the standard female Mopar connector, don't know what you call it and don't know how they "break" or no longer grab on.

Our '65 Signet has dual horns, one wire stays put while the other continues to fall off. Upon examination, I don't notice any difference between the two. Any remedies you know of? Thank you.

I honked the horn with the motor off and the ammeter did not budge. It shows a charge with engine running. What is good on the '65 design, is that the ammeter wires don't use the main harness plug coming from the engine compartment, they have their own unique metal clamps with screws where they...

I installed the new 16 gauge fusible link and the '65 Valiant is up and running again. I found a common "fault" when checking charging voltage which is I need to rev above idle speed before the alternator begins to show a charge. I found that same anomaly in my '72 Satellite. The initial...

I shopped three stores here in town for #2-56 machine screws and nuts with no luck (got close when I found brass #2-56 in wood screw versions at Home Depot). Went home and ordered some from Amazon, should be here in a week. I'm a little out of pocket here in Mexico.

I assume post #2 are ABody pins @ 0.0905. I found a listing for 2-56 screws that show a "major diameter of 0.0860", which seems like a fit. Still not sure if the CBody are an exact match to the ABody. I shop around town for the screws tomorrow.

I like the idea of the 2-56 screws used to repair the circuit board that was posted on for C Bodies only. I was wondering if anyone knows if the ABody circuit boards use the same size pins? Thank you. Instrument Cluster Repair

And just for some added information, in the back of the Plymouth 1965 Technical Service manual there is a section of the book called "Specifications" and on page 12 of that section the alternator ratings are: six cylinder in AV-1 models: 26 amperes, all other V-8 models: 34.5 amperes, and heavy...

That photo in #5 is from my other '65, the Formula S.

According to page 8-109 of the Plymouth 1965 Service Technical Manual the hot wire from the alternator to the bulk head connector is labeled R6, is black, and is 12 gauge. However, I recently installed a new under-hood wiring harness I purchased online and it's hard to tell what gauge wire was...

We have a 1965 Plymouth Valiant Signet Convertible with no accessories (manual steering, manual brakes, no A/C, no radio) just has a heater, horn, and 6014 headlamps (factory were 6012). However, evidently a previous owner installed a radio which is now missing (but there are dual radio antennas...