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Update: Drove around the block with the power brake booster hose disconnected; found the same brake pedal effort either way, with the hose on or off. No booster boost at all.

I noticed awhile ago when I pressed the power brake pedal on the '65 Formula S that the idle speed would change. Then I noticed the idle speed was not changing when pressing on the brake, but the idle was then rough and the power brake assist was no longer available. Took an extreme effort...

Booster Dewey looks like quality stuff (two year warranty) and shows an Abody unit (no master cylinder) @ $695.00 plus international shipping plus customs fees. I wish I could afford it, but not at the moment.

I am with you guys, ABodies are fine with manual brakes. However, with wimpy generations (female co-owner of vehicle and grand kids) coming up behind me, I prefer to maintain the power brake feature.

Thanks, but I would use existing stuff except for the fact my existing factory booster failed for the second time and I'm done with it.

Just starting looking into the aftermarket. I thought my first "hit" would work, but "fine" print states only for converting manual brake vehicles to power/dual master cylinder (see link below). I have factory power brakes on my '65 Formula S so I need to keep looking. Any experience out there...

If I swap to a dual master cylinder, I was thinking there would be an upgraded power booster kit to go along with it.

About ten years ago I spent good money having the factory power brake booster renewed. Awhile ago I noticed diminished assist and at the same time the idle speed would change slightly when I depressed the brake pedal. Now it seems no power assist whatsoever and no change in idle speed when brake...

Update: Tested the vacuum cannister/reservoir tank a second time (now off the vehicle) and was able to pump out enough for a 17" reading (vs the 5" reading earlier). It took several hundred pumps which I guess indicate my pump tool is not in the greatest shape. The gauge held pretty steady.

Four factor drums all around.

Everything needed to convert from single master cylinder w/factory power to dual master cylinder with power.

The '65 Formula S power booster failed for the second time, decided to finally upgrade. What aftermarket source would be best? Thank you.

Manual and power brake listings for M/C show different part numbers, but they are both 1" bore size. The pushrod arrangement must be different.

The flat washer can be seen in the photo (it's a brass color):

FYI, the washer in the factory diagram looks like a plain flat washer. Agreed, the M/C is toast (there are companies that sleeve the bores, I suppose for vehicles that don't have aftermarket parts available). I could not find a rebuild kit for the M/C anywhere online, except for a couple of 50...

I installed the master cylinder myself, never changed the fluid after that, no.

This rebuilt master cylinder was installed more than ten years ago (photo #1). Recently, I found it empty and the brake pedal going all the way to the floor (the '65 Valiant Signet convertible it belongs to had been parked and not driven for a long, long time). On the end of the piston (just...

Follow up to my other thread: Are Brake Drums a Press Fit? "Problem" was this: while reassembling the 10" front brakes on the '65 Valiant Signet convertible it appeared the driver's side brake drum (which had separated from the hub when the left-hand lugs were changed over to right-hand lugs)...

I don't know about stretching them that much. The following video is what I expected the job would entail (not the beginning of a nightmare).

After watching the first video, it looks like the swedged lugs also have the serrations (I thought they were smooth in that case). Now I wonder if maybe the factory lugs are "swedged" after all.

These studs were not the swedge type. The are serrated like the ones that were removed and installed with an impact wrench (not my idea, the fabricator who I employed to help me out). Nonetheless, it appears the serrations came out too far after installation and are preventing the drum from...

When changing the lug studs on the '65 Valiant Signet convertible, the drum fell off the driver's side hub. I thought I would just slide it back over and on during reassembly, but it still needs to go about another 1/4 inch or so. I first tried to tighten some lug nuts to kinda "press" it back...

No, not in original packaging.

Now another problem, this time working on a 1965 Plymouth Valiant Signet convertible where someone swapped in a 1974 Dodge Dart 7 1/4 rear end which now has 9 inch brakes (front of vehicle has factory 10 inch drums). Based on the previously installed rear cylinder markings, I purchased two rear...

Update to post #1: I just completed some more research conducted in reading the 1965 factory Plymouth parts catalog/manual. The blow-up photo of the Valiant/Dart power booster shows the vacuum tank and hose but no check-valve. Looking at the parts list, there is a part number for the vacuum tank...

I used the straw, but I have not squeezed the straw between the rubber and the cable (looks like it would be a really tight fit).

Pulling on the parking/hand brake on the '65 Valiant Signet convertible does not apply the parking brake. The handle will slide out 1 3/4" and then comes to an abrupt stop. Looking underneath at the cables while I pull on the handle, I can see the main cable from the handle is free but the...

Update to post #11: After comparing the front 10" backing plate and the rear 9" backing plate, I find the 9" anchor pin is perhaps not machined for the anchor pin plate. The 10" has its own little relief step for the plate (photo #1) and the 9" does not have the same relief (photo #2).

Update: I raked the yard three times, going perpendicular to the previous raking each time. Looked around everywhere, even in the street out front and no sign of the anchor pin plate. Now resigned to fabricate one, I squatted down to the rear passenger side 9 inch brake assembly to remove the...