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Did they say what they had to fix in the trans?

@AJ/FormS

No gasket or sealer is needed between bellhousing and transmission surface. The bearing retainer has an internal seal and a gasket between it and trans.

I have a '73 and up set of pedals that are needle bearing. But, they are factory, not converted.

Looks fine to me.

They are costly, but I used the robbmc dowels

I had the dial indicator on the bellhousing when I was tightening all the bolts. I had all of the bolts in. Every time I would tighten a bolt the indicator would move.

I have been looking for alternatives to clearance a pilot bushing, using tools that I would have at home. I found one that will work great for me. Thought I would share this here, maybe it will help someone. I know they probably aren’t the highest quality, but for less than $20 and the limited...

At first I did do that. Tried this and that. Put them back in turned them a little bit different than what they were to start with and it all came together.

I forgot the video. But I got it down to .005” tolerance. The parallel measurement is .004” off on one side. Would this be acceptable?

May try that. I am gonna try readjusting and will report back here with video. Once this part is sorted out I will be checking the parallel also.

I have .014” offset dowels in at the moment.

That what I was thinking, just needed a second opinion. If that is the case, I am within spec. My Motors repair manual calls for .008” or less to be within spec.

At the moment I don't have a mic to check the hole roundness. I will see what I can round up. I will check the back of the bellhousing for squareness tomorrow.

Center of the flywheel

All 7 bolts are in the housing and tight. I took a video of the bellhousing alignment. Looks like the side to side bore has an issue or am I looking at it wrong. Where do I go from here?

Dropped my e brake and it still wouldn’t come out.

I had to remove the clutch pedal in my 67 dart. Tried to remove the pedal itself, not enough room to get it out, not even close. I ended up taking everything around it loose and dropping the whole assembly.

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I have a centerforce DF clutch in my 67 Dart. How can I tell if the centerforce pressure plate is weak or not built correctly? Something has not been right since day 1. Things I have checked are: 1. Clutch pedal has 5 1/4" pin spread 2. Pedal measures 7" from carpet to top of pedal pad. 3. 14...

I have the #734 bellhousing. Brewers site says I need this stud bracket, The one I have looks like this, Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists

I had someone press the pedal and I watched the arm come down and the angle also got worse. Now that I have everything stable and straight I can only get around .030" of gap at the disc. That is with the bearing against the pressure plate.

I will check the things ya'll have mentioned.

I have the same Z bar that mattsmopars measured in his post. Z-bar measurements please!

I lowered the engine and leveled out the Z bar.

AJ, you guessed it.

Well, I guess if I had the transmission attached to the engine it might straighten things out a little. Been in too much of a hurry multitasking around the homestead today. :realcrazy::BangHead:

Should this clutch adjustment rod have this much angle?

Just thought I would share the bracket I made to mount the bearing retainer, so I can operate the clutch and check the air gap between disc and flywheel. I made sure the angle iron was flat and straight. Nothing special, but maybe it will help someone in the future.

I see no reason why it couldn't be done. As long as you have some fabricating skills. I would like to see it done. Anyone know if the slap stick gear selector plate is smaller than the A body console selector plate.