Search results for query: *

I'm using a firm feel # 2 in my superbird and I love it !

I have a couple of buddies that switched to Cal-tracs and they really improved their cars, and how they hook...but I think every car is a bit different. There's a lot of racers that swear by them...

set pinion snubber to about 1/2 inch.... add clamps to the front segments of the springs, and remove all clamps from the rear portion ( behind the axel ) of the springs. I'v personally not tried the solid bushings, but I might. your shock set-up is what I run as well. If you want the car to hook...

I use a pipe wrench. Work as well as anything.

x2

you can use the same pump, but you will need to get the correct brackets, for which ever type pump you have (Saginaw, Federal, Tompson) for what ever motor you have now installed ( small block, big block )

I personally would just replace the inner aprons with new replacements from AMD. To me, it's not worth the time to remove old used donor sheet metal, if there are new replacements available. They don't cost that much. I would never change frame rails unless there rotted. Just my opinion though...

I put a firmfeel box in my superbird last spring, and I love it ! ( stage 2) I sent them my original box, as I wanted to keep everything numbers/date code correct. Turn around time was 4 weeks. I think they also do an exchange deal as well, as long as you provide them with a useable core.

I'v seen this problem before......that duster, has an eariler K member in it. You can trim that tab off, or I belive there is an eariler power steering pump, that has different mounting brackets, and mounts higher.

In the seventies it was a cool thing to have our cars all jacked up with huge tires sticking out, It made them handle like crap, and ride hard, but man......it looked cool......well back then it did.........not so much any more..LOL!

I dought anybody makes that peice, but just go to a junk yard and find one to cut off of a car that already has the engine removed, or maybe some members on here have an old k member there not using.

I modified a 67 K member into a 68 an up by carefully cutting the welds on the idler arm mount, and welding on one from a 70' slant six K member. I did not like that 67 set-up either, and as mentioned the idler arms are more expensive and harder to come by. If you know how to weld, it's an easy...

and I just threw one in the metal dumpster a month ago, of a 71 duster....go figure.

I'd guess the lowerer control arm bushings at shot, and possibly the uppers.

3:55 is a nice all around gear, and I rather have them any day over 3:23s

I have 4-1/4 backspace. Here's some pic.s but there probably not very good ones for what you want to see.

yes about 3/4 of an inch on each side extra clearance. I run this set-up on my duster and it allows me to use 8-1/2 rims with 275 60 15s.

thats odd.....I got my entire front kit from energy suspension and I got them, but You have to order them seprate, as there is three different size sway bar diameters. and you need to know which bar you have. Anyway, they are not as bad to slip over the sway bar end as I thought, and was fairly...

I generally just open a vise wide enough to lay the shaft across it with the pin in between the jaws ( but don't clamp the pin ) and use a hammer and punch to take it out. hope this makes sense....

I just put one in my superbird, ( actually I sent mine to them, for a stage 2 rebuild) and they do awsome work! My bird drives like a new car now.

cut the upper tab off another K member and weld it in place. the 67 one tab K members were known for a lot of flex with the idler arm. it was a poor set-up, and the early idler arms are expensive so I'm told. I have done this , and it worked out great.

they make caps that slide over your existing cross member and can be welded in place to re-enforce this common problem area.

I'm pretty much the opposite, all my cars get power steering......manual steering is primitive!.....they steer like a truck.

I know you can purchase the cam bolts ( PACKAGE) for the upper A arms from most any auto parts store. What else are you looking for in particular?

you should measure your sway bar, as there were 3 different diameter sway bars used on A bodies.

are your upper/ lower control arm bushings worn? has it ever been in an accident? Just some things to look at....

It appears in the picture that the shaft is not pressed in far enough on that control arm. I guess you'll find out when you try to install it.

I had the same symptoms with a cuda I had years ago. The car had bias ply tires on it, so I put radials on it , and that cured it. cars that are sprung to stiff will feel this way too.

If you don't have the proper socket, you can usally turn them out with a pipe wrench.

yes, they will easily withstand 450 h.p. I'v had mopars for years with more than that and no issues