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I believe the Yellow Rose Forum discussion topic is "Crankshaft size" and the first mention of oil is in post 36 on page 3 See Yellow Rose Forum: Crankshaft size, page 3

Stress is the load (force) per unit area and strain is the deformation of the structure in response to stress. So, the stress and strain in the valve train should not vary with the grade of oil used. I think you are more concerned with engine wear and this depends upon the lubrication regime...

Don't use Lucas Oil Stabiliser. It dilutes the additives in your engine oil because it has very little of its own and can cause air entrainment. If you need more viscosity, use a heavier engine instead. See Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Engines need oil flow and pressure is a characteristic of flow...

I would use a 30-weight (0W-30, 5W-30, 10W30) HDEO. The 0W-30 and 5W-30 versions are generally synthetic engine oils. Oil distributors stock the less common grades.

If high oil pressure at start-up is your only concern, you could try a 0W-30 Heavy Duty Engine Oil. These are generally synthetics so, although their cold viscosity is lower, they don't thin out as quickly as oil temperatures rise. That would the cheapest and easiest option. I wouldn't...

What is the viscosity of the oil you're using?

Royal Purple exaggerates a bit in their marketing. There are oils that are at least as good or better for less money. BITOG: Royal Purple

If you're interested in bio-engine oils, Renewable Lubricants seems to be discussed regularly on BITOG: http://www.renewablelube.com/ More discussion of oil additives, specifically Lucas Zinc additive: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=83428 SSDan has an excellent...

Sorry. I didn't write the software (vBulletin Version 3.6.7) for this board but I just wanted to provide you with some friendly advice. Some forum software (like phpBB) does a better job of explaining why it didn't return any results. For example, if you were to search the Fuels Forum for...

Going back to the Z-Alt stuff, if they say their product isn't snake oil, does that really mean that it isn't? What makes you so sure that a quality engine oil needs supplementary additives? A good heavy duty engine oil already has all of the additives necessary to protect your engine. There...

You didn't try very hard. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=81822

No more than 1200 ppm of phosphorus is required to protect aggressive aftermarket valve trains. Although not every Heavy Duty Engine Oil lists zinc & phosphorus content, the following show a P content of at least 1200 ppm: Chevron Delo 400 LE 15W-40 (1200 ppm P) Esso XD-3 Extra 15W-40...

BITOG: CJ-4/SM HDEO & Flat Tappet Valve Train Protection API CJ-4 limits phosphorus to 1200 ppm and most of the CJ-4/SM HDEOs have 1000-1200 ppm of phosphorus. This is plenty of anti-wear additive for the OP's mild 360.

Maybe the BITOG additive report is a bit flawed but I think the test is applicable because crankshaft windage and gears inside an engine can cause air entrainment. Personally, I would think that an engine oil is already equipped with all of the additives it requires and I don't think I can do a...

Going back to the original question, see the following page: Chrysler Oil Recommendations - 1975 Chrysler Service Manual For summer driving, you will be safe to use a 10W-30 or 15W-40 HDEO. A Heavy Duty Engine Oil will have plenty of anti-wear additive for a flat tappet valve trains and...

Swepco describes their oils as "High VI solvent extracted paraffinic base stocks". I believe this means that they use Group I base stocks with lots of Viscosity Index Improver additives. Better oils today use Group II and higher base stocks. Group I oils are what were typically available to...

I'm not sure where you heard that synthetic oil makes your valve seals hard. PAO (Group IV) oils tend to shrink seals but modern synthetics have seal conditioner additives to promote long seal life (see Use seal conditioners as preventive maintenance?). I have heard that some people have...

Hot-tanking the intake will clean out the cross-over passage and it takes time to dissolve the deposits. I've had it done many years ago and there was some residual deposits left behind. Besides having the choke come off faster, having a hot spot under the carburetor will give you better fuel...

I would use a 30-weight HDEO (Heavy Duty Engine Oil) rather than a racing oil because HDEOs have better detergent additives with similar amounts of ZDDP. In a conventional oil, Shell has Rotella T 10W-30 (CI-4/SL) and Brad Penn has HDEO 10W-30 (CJ-4/SM). A synthetic HDEO is another option and...