Reducing Oil Pressure

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idrift

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After some time away from my Dart I've been getting her back on the
road this spring. I'm getting the ambition to pull the oil pan and either
change the pump or spring inside. My problem is I have way too much
pressure. Cold at idle this thing is at over 70 lbs and if I rev her up
to 2000 it's at 90! When she's good and hot in the summer she will
still pull 40 ish at idle and 60 at rpm. I know if you follow the rule of
10 psi per rpm that not too bad on the top end but I'd rather bring
it down so I'm not having a filter bomb go off.

Anyone have any luck with a spring change or should I just
replace the whole pump, and if so any suggestions?

Thanks
 
What is the viscosity of the oil you're using?
 
fjr said:
What is the viscosity of the oil you're using?
Click to expand...

I don't know which pump is in it because I can't find it on the receipts for
the engine parts he gave me. I am running 10-30 now because anything
higher is worse. I found a fram filter will drop it down 10 psi over the
wix I am running....
 
I don't see a problem. High pressure when cold is normal and 40psi at idle when warm along with the 60psi warm/cruise is fine in my opinion.
 
If high oil pressure at start-up is your only concern, you could try a 0W-30 Heavy Duty Engine Oil. These are generally synthetics so, although their cold viscosity is lower, they don't thin out as quickly as oil temperatures rise. That would the cheapest and easiest option.

I wouldn't worry about a filter bomb if you're using a good quality filter. Wix oil filters (for example) have a burst pressure of 275 psi.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
I don't see a problem. High pressure when cold is normal and 40psi at idle when warm along with the 60psi warm/cruise is fine in my opinion.
Click to expand...

Yep, sounds more like he needs to get the oil up to temp 1st, then stomp on it.

warm it up real good and shut it off for 5 min then fire it up and go.

I usually just putt around till the oil temp gets there.

I use the bosch oil filters, I believe the bypass rate is the same as a fram, but just a better filter.jmo
 
seems fine to me. let it warm up a few min before you rev it past a fast idle, i'd be more worried about the fram filter, i would use a M1 or K&N or even a Good part store one with a thicker outer shell. some of the cheap filters are like squizing toilet paper,
 
dont use fram filters, period. If you go with a lighter oil 5w-30 is a better move according to oil experts i trust. All in all 40-60psi is no big deal tho as others above stated.
 
How good is the gage? if it goes to 60, no problem at all. If it keeps climing and passes 100, that's too high. But maybe the gage is not really accurate and the low pressure is lower... Can you use a diagnostic gage to double check it? The reson Fram has lower pressure is the filter isnt good enough to be a restriction :D.
 
Hey try Rotella from Shell I use it in my 340 dart and the car runs alot smoother. Alot of people I know run it also junk the fram filters they are crap!!!!!!!!!!!11
 
I had a T/A that spun a bearing. Rebuilding it, I stretched the spring a little too far; 90 lbs. Maybe previous owner?...
 
Will this much oil pressure negate the use of Rhoads lifters?
 
That would be great. The Edelbrock Performer RPM cam I got it with
kills my low end. Well unless you dump the clutch at 3 grand all the
time. I'd like a different cam altogether but kids in high school and
college are swiping all my car money!
 
idrift said:
That would be great. The Edelbrock Performer RPM cam I got it with
kills my low end. Well unless you dump the clutch at 3 grand all the
time. I'd like a different cam altogether but kids in high school and
college are swiping all my car money!
Click to expand...

Hows the tune? and what intake r u using?

A dual plane rpm, well tuned carb/pump shot with as high initial timing as it'll take will aid this greatly.
 
I changed out the M1 intake to a Performer RPM Air gap last year and
that helped a ton. Also took my disty apart and recurved it so I have
about 18 initial with 34 all in. Changed my rear gearing to 3.23's with
14" 60 series tires and that helped also. I think you helped me out last
year some with A/F ratio thoughts and I have the carb tweaked in
pretty well.

It runs pretty good but I would like a little better low end. Maybe I'm
just chasing gremlins though and should tweak on the carb a little more.
 
idrift said:
I changed out the M1 intake to a Performer RPM Air gap last year and
that helped a ton. Also took my disty apart and recurved it so I have
about 18 initial with 34 all in. Changed my rear gearing to 3.23's with
14" 60 series tires and that helped also. I think you helped me out last
year some with A/F ratio thoughts and I have the carb tweaked in
pretty well.

It runs pretty good but I would like a little better low end. Maybe I'm
just chasing gremlins though and should tweak on the carb a little more.
Click to expand...

Maybe, how much could you raise the initial timing before starter kicked back?
 
I could go to 22 no problem but I am worried about running pump gas
on it with that much initial. I don't think I am getting any detonation
at all at the moment and it seemed like it at higher initial. I have 185 to
190 cylinder cranking pressure.

I know it's even more responsive at 22 but maybe thats the trade off
I would have to make.
 
idrift said:
I could go to 22 no problem but I am worried about running pump gas
on it with that much initial. I don't think I am getting any detonation
at all at the moment and it seemed like it at higher initial. I have 185 to
190 cylinder cranking pressure.

I know it's even more responsive at 22 but maybe thats the trade off
I would have to make.
Click to expand...

Yeah or you could slow the rate a lil with the full advance to hold off another 500-1k.
BUT
If it didn't detonate at 22* when you stomp on it [given you maintain the same total/full advance] then you'll be fine.

Yes, 4* makes a big diff in throttle response.
 
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