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Maybe use pop rivets in the more solid areas, and yellow weatherstrip adhesive.

I was doing my inner door panels on my F100 ( they are steel). I tried the HF Contour stripper, and it's heavy for older people. I went back to my DA. It was faster. I haven't tried it on any large surfaces.

I have added resin to body filler. It gives a smooth application. Great for when you get towards the bottom of the can, and can extend cure times.

I have stripped aluminum, and polished it. I didn't re anodise after. In my opinion, it's not that hard, or frequent that I have to polish again.

Cross drill the mounting pin, and use a cotter pin. Did mine, no issues.

I've had AMD bumpers on my Dart for about 9 years. Very happy.

I like this idea. Simple, and easy. If it doesn't work, then strip it.

As for the oil type of rust deterrent, I bet every time you have to work on the car, that oily stuff will get all over you.

I bought one for my 69 Dart. No complaints. I can't seem to get one for my 64 Sport Fury. Fed ex keeps smashing them in shipping. 2 so far.

The doors should be aligned with the quarter panel, and the rocket panel. Then the fender aligns to the door. Are you sure that you can't adjust the fender? You can slot the holes on the fender to get more adjustment. If it is a replacement fender, plan on modifications. I do whatever I can to...

I use seam sealer.

I wouldn't put anything foam between the body parts. Probably will hold water.

Lots of cracks in the damaged area. Also look like a chunk of bondo came out when it was hit. You can strip the fender on the car, and see how bad it is. Only you can decide whether to repair the fender on, or off the car. Just depends on if it's easier to work on bolted to the car.

The only way to fill holes is to weld them. The fender on the car has a lot of bondo in it. The one off the car has issues, but it looks to be a better bet. If you invest in a good welder, you will never regret it. Some body tools from Harbor freight should help.

Just so you know, you're not the only dummy out there. I did it myself, and I've been working on cars since the 70's. I dodged the bullet on mine. The fender with the least rust is the best choice. You want to pull, push , the metal in the opposite direction of how it was hit. You should look at...

I bought the push clips that were supposed to be the right ones, but they were flimsy. Didn't seem to hold the hinge like it should. I have heard horror stories about the hinges coming off, and tearing up the paint. I cross drilled the pins, and used washers to shim it tight, and used a cotter...

I see you can't let it go. I didn't say you don't know what your doing. Why do you think it's ok to say that to me? you don't know anything about me, my experience, or what I'm capable of. It's fine if you don't agree. I just related what happened to me, and made a suggestion to the OP. Please...

Not sure what I wiped it down with. Probably lacquer thinner. No Ospho. I think it was about a week between the DP90, and the Slick Sand. Possible the DP was a bad mix, since I used the rest of the Slick Sand on other projects, without any issues. I like Slick sand. It's like spray bondo. Even...

Many shops commonly apply self-etching primer to bare metal surfaces. But most polyester fillers and epoxy primers should not be applied directly over self-etching primers. So what do you apply when you need additional filling? Feather Fill G2 is the answer. This is from the Eastwood website...

I sprayed the DP, It dried. I shot slick sand. It softened up the DP under the Slick Sand. I sanded it off. I f you don't believe me, or the Eastwood website, feel free to do whatever makes you happy.

So, is week of dry time too soon? I mixed it properly, it was dry when I coated it. Check with Evercoat. Featherfill G2 Gray Gallon Please read the details section.

In my experience, do not use Slick Sand over DP. I shot an engine compartment with DP90, came back a week later, scuffed it, and shot Slick Sand. It softened up the DP, and wouldn't cure. I had to sand the entire engine compartment down again, and just shot it with Slick Sand. They make a...

Very interesting. How do they work with the stock flashers, other bulbs,etc?

Using the striker to align the door puts stress on the striker mounting area that it wasn't designed for. That, and slamming the door is why A bodys tear around the striker.

I've done a few panel replacements in my time. If I get pinholes, I go back over with the mig. Fiberglass expands at a different rate than metal. Eventually it seperates. Remember the hoodscoops people glassed on back in the 70s, and 80s. They always cracked. When done, I use seam sealer.

Sure looks like an old CB antenna mounting holes. Weld em up.

Buy a decent tubing bender. They're not expensive. Plan on making, or modifying all of your lines. A decent double flare kit for brake lines with a tubing cutter will help. It's not that hard. Do not run that fuel line ,or any line near the tire.

Why not just cut the roof right above the rust, resolve the rust underneath, then weld it back up? You will need to be very careful welding to avoid warpage.

I wouldn't trust it, but the only way to know, is to spray some of the primer, and see if you get any issues.

I don't think they had fender emblems. Google 1969 Dart swinger.