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I downloaded it from allpar.com and then a buddy of mine had a service manual that belongs to his uncle, it's the same downloaded book (word for word) from online, and the te alternator is a round back.

I do have factory pulleys with new belts (tension on pulley is acceptable), it has a 42 amp alternator from autozone (duralast), engine idles at 900 rpm at park/ neutral and 600 rpm in gear, battery is 2 years old, and all I have for accessories are my general lighting (headlights, driving...

I'm lost here, I have my 75 dodge powerwagon, it charges great when idling in park and neutral and when driving. But when I am in gear idling in traffic my battery slowly gets drained. Am I missing something here? What can I do to fix this?

Bro, 67dart273 is not being a prick by any means. What crawled up your ***? I see your one of "those guys", 67dart273 is a very helpful individual. He has point, the last thing he/we want(s) is to see is someone spending money on a relay and end up being something else down the line. I've had...

The reluctor is a gear inside distributor cap, has 8 teeth, one for every cylinder. It spins and once it lines up with the Coil, it causes the magnetic pick up coil to send signal to ECU box. Check if the spacing is correct.

Won't hurt anything, just don't start increasing fuse sizes.

You have switched voltage (primary) to the coil? Should be coming from switch to ballast resistor, from ballast resistor to coil, check if primary voltage is present.

Clean the sockets to ensure you have a clean ground is your first step. If all is well, there's a bulk connector in the trunk, find which wire is which and check for voltage (test light). You can also check if you have 12volt constant in the socket when your driving lights are on, if you do, its...

How HEI conversions, you guys prefer them over traditional ECU?

How do you guys test if an ECU has gone kaput?

You can mount where ever your heart desires, just make sure the wiring is long enough for the back end, or you can always butt splice to ensure proper length.

Fuseable link may have gone bad.

No, it's all bonded from the battery to the engine from engine to body, nothing wrong with adding a ground strap.

Anywhere your heart desires

I had the same issue with my 68 Cuda when I started her up for the first time after engine rebuild, the starter relay got stuck on the closed position. I had to open it up and adjust the contacts. Try replacing the starter relay.

I reused mine. I checked the wires and made sure they weren't too brittle or deteriorated. If you can, use what you have.

No, I meant the battery (-) grounds the glass, tires, carpet, and vinyl. LOL.

The whole car is grounded, anywhere in the dash frame is fine.

The dome lights should have constant 12v going to them, the door jam switch is a spring switch, that operates ground (open door closes the ground contact thus lighting up the dom light, closed door opens the ground contacts, thus kills power). check to see if its your ground, you shouldn't have...

You can add a glass fuse on your fuse block, tap in from your ignition 12v line to power up the fuse and run another line out the other end of the fuse to power up your AC. That's what I did for a buddy of mine on his chevelle, he had to buy the ac controls and the whole chabang, works great!

It's keeps the the voltage steady while charging, between 12-14 volts. 15 volts is high, have you checked the generator?

I learned something new here myself, BobbyY. Thanks!!!

yes, it will work. get a single pole double throw (spdt) type switch. that way you can turn both off or power one or the other.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

Don't worry, that's why we are here...to help each other out. Use your 12 volt car battery, you're going to need some wire to use as your jumpers. The negative side will go to the frame, the positive side will be your 12 volt source. Make sure you identify which one is your light bulb pin. Since...

I had that issue myself, clean the contacts on the on the circuit board. I cleaned the light bulb socket terminals as well, even pulled more tension on the contact wings on the socket, then make sure you have proper continuity from all grounding points...lastly I bench tested my cluster. No...

I cleaned all the 12v sources on the circuit board and pins, cleaned the light bulb socket terminals, open up the copper wings on the bulb sockets, and finally, ran individual grounds to each grounded screw terminals on mine, 100% working order.

The water, oil, and ignition lead have been spiced into for a after market gauges, I removed them so I was wondering if the water temp and oil pressure wires will pick up accurately if I butt splice them back together?

I am converting my slant 6 barracuda f/b, do I require a new engine harness for this swap or can I use the a slant six engine harness?