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Local Sherwin Williams auto store. Buy a good mask, that stuff is nasty.

yeah, $2k at home for bodywork and primer. $5 for the paint shop.

Sand and wipe ospho on it; that will kill rust in the areas you can't get sandpaper in.

Geometry with any linkage is important. If it's off, it will ruin your life. Do more homework.

My 70 Duster, bought new, had the leak, still does. Window gasket. 69 Chargers have the same problem.

Nobody wipes with phosphric acid, just to make sure?

We took a 69 Charger, in primer, and block sanded to a local body shop. Owner was Mopar guy. $5k, and perfect. (we had done bay and jambs, under hood and trunk.)

They bow out all over. Tape.

My 70 leaked from the left front from when it was new. Wasn't cowl, wipers; the gasket. And good luck. Buddy with a 69 Charger restro- we needed a gasket-plant burnt down; now prices triple. Finally find one, get local guy to install. Leaky leaky leaky. And I helped him; he did use butyl.

Sand, ospho, and bondo.

Yeap, butyl. The new cars glass is structural part of the body/roll-over, different sealer-more like glue. Old mopars- butyl.

Get Sherwins williams heavy primer, you won't sand through, if the body is close to straight. If not, go back and fill in the low spots in 15 minutes. They primer really shows up the lows.

Butyl. Only thing that works on old cars; came with butyl. If you can't find it, go to local auto glass place. new cars use different sealer, won't work.

out, use slick stuff.

Probably the wiper seal.

It does go down in North Florida. We heated up the shop until the sheetmetal read 65 on the infrared, opened one bay door, then sprayed. Was good. That was medium reducer.

There is a raised lip in the cowl area, above the box, that you are feeling. About 1/2 to 3/4" high. If it rusts at the bottom; vent box leak. You can; stick hand up there, sand, while your body goes into cramp mode, do it again, clean, rub ospho on it. Wait a day, then reach up and blindly...

Yeah, Ospho cheaper at hardware store, soon as the rust turns black, seal it.

Sure looks like f8.

here, spotted base

This car has base work re-done , in spots.

A good body shop does it all day long.

Buy the full and cut out what you need.

Local parts store.

Yeah, can't remember the name, but cheap at harbor freight.

Hardware store; tek screws, self tapping.

y'know, a jack and a block of wood might get it close; then the hammer. Put a straight edge and level on the good side. Measurements from the upper body line; match the good side.

Make sure you use a dolly.

Buy the welder, get some scrap metal. Look on-line, then practice; then weld the car.

It depends on what you want: 2 years? clean, ospho and filler Long? cut it out, ospho, mig, harbor freight bender. It's not that hard to do it correctly. Maybe $600 in tools that you will use again. If you have the $, I would buy a Hobart.