Can a 2 stage paint finish be repaired?

-
H

h2ojoe8

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2010
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Greetings,
I spent 2 summers, and hundreds of hour preparing my 1964 Dodge dart GT Convertible. It was pricey even prep. My car was painted last week in a base cleaecoat, and my heart is whacked. There is dirt in the clearcoat, and fisheyes. It seems like the painter couldn't bend overbecause the is much lest product around the wheel wells. am I gonna need to start over, or can you get a nice finish with repair? Materials for paint only were 750.00! Help!:wack:
 
was this addressed before you took the car home? i would be persuing a fix by the body shop/painter
 
h2ojoe8 said:
Greetings,
I spent 2 summers, and hundreds of hour preparing my 1964 Dodge dart GT Convertible. It was pricey even prep. My car was painted last week in a base cleaecoat, and my heart is whacked. There is dirt in the clearcoat, and fisheyes. It seems like the painter couldn't bend overbecause the is much lest product around the wheel wells. am I gonna need to start over, or can you get a nice finish with repair? Materials for paint only were 750.00! Help!:wack:
Click to expand...
How are you determining there's less Product around wheel wells?

Anyway, The painter needs to be held responsible. He probably can wet sand everything and Re-Clear coat it. Fish Eyes can happen even to the best Painters. It just needs to be fixed and that's up to the paint Shop.
 
The car does not need to be stripped if that is what you are asking.

Dirt can be nibbed out so that isn't a problem.

If the base is so thin that you can see the sealer through it, that's more of a problem.

But anyway..... This is nothing that some sanding and blending couldn't fix. Just remember that you can't stop the clear in the middle of a panel.

For example, if you have a problem that needs to be corrected on the left 1/4, the left 1/4, right 1/4, both sail panels, the roof and both a pillars will need to be re-cleared.
 
Upon my inspection, I learned the doors weren't even opened leaving unpainted surfaces! the trunk was not opened, but he managed to lose the key, but no paint applied to trunk gutters. hood not raised, This is not something I would not care to continue with this person. My question is can you smooth out the dirt in the clear, and finish the unfinished jams etc. Some of it looks good, but the bumps in the clear, and fisheyes are unnacceptable. It should look new. I didn't wait around. I paid a 500. Deposit was to pay additional 500. when done I also supplied 785. in materials. Not looking for this person to touch it again. When I saw carnage, I drove Car home. Just want to know if fine sanding and buffing can remove fish, and dirt/bugs?
 
The car should have been disassembled, jammed, re-assembled, then painted. You will probably be looking at repainting most of the car now.

BUT is looks like you only paid $1,785. That price isn't going to get you perfect mirror paint but it should be all one color.....
 
I would wet sand it with 600 and find someone else to paint it. You dont have to disassemble the car to paint it, The factory didnt but you will get a nicer job if you do.
 
Find a new painter, have it shot again after sanding it all down.
 
One of the big advantages of 2 stage is repairability. You've got the clear coat to sand on. Can't do that with single stage.
 
i disagree idaho. base clear is harder to repair, espialyy if his problems were in the base coat.
 
h2ojoe8 said:
Upon my inspection, I learned the doors weren't even opened leaving unpainted surfaces! the trunk was not opened, but he managed to lose the key, but no paint applied to trunk gutters. hood not raised, This is not something I would not care to continue with this person. My question is can you smooth out the dirt in the clear, and finish the unfinished jams etc. Some of it looks good, but the bumps in the clear, and fisheyes are unnacceptable. It should look new. I didn't wait around. I paid a 500. Deposit was to pay additional 500. when done I also supplied 785. in materials. Not looking for this person to touch it again. When I saw carnage, I drove Car home. Just want to know if fine sanding and buffing can remove fish, and dirt/bugs?
Click to expand...

1968FormulaS340 said:
The car should have been disassembled, jammed, re-assembled, then painted. You will probably be looking at repainting most of the car now.

BUT is looks like you only paid $1,785. That price isn't going to get you perfect mirror paint but it should be all one color.....
Click to expand...

Sounds like maybe the second $500 wasn't paid.
 
h2ojoe8 said:
Upon my inspection, I learned the doors weren't even opened leaving unpainted surfaces! the trunk was not opened, but he managed to lose the key, but no paint applied to trunk gutters. hood not raised, This is not something I would not care to continue with this person. My question is can you smooth out the dirt in the clear, and finish the unfinished jams etc. Some of it looks good, but the bumps in the clear, and fisheyes are unnacceptable. It should look new. I didn't wait around. I paid a 500. Deposit was to pay additional 500. when done I also supplied 785. in materials. Not looking for this person to touch it again. When I saw carnage, I drove Car home. Just want to know if fine sanding and buffing can remove fish, and dirt/bugs?
Click to expand...
I feel your pain. I had my engine compartment painted, at first look I was wowed by shiney paint, after getting it home I kept finding flaws and signsd of lazy work and poor prep. I did call the body shop owner on the scratchs in the top of the hood (from panel stands)and the chip in the cowl from the hood corner, he offered to repaint the hood and give me some paint to dab in the chip. I just came to the decision that he isn't touching my car agian, I'll let him have his touch up work for the "we finance anybody" car lots. He even asked me to recomend him to friends, I will let the work speak for itself and make sure to mention who did it.
 
coffeedart67 said:
I feel your pain. I had my engine compartment painted, at first look I was wowed by shiney paint, after getting it home I kept finding flaws and signsd of lazy work and poor prep. I did call the body shop owner on the scratchs in the top of the hood (from panel stands)and the chip in the cowl from the hood corner, he offered to repaint the hood and give me some paint to dab in the chip. I just came to the decision that he isn't touching my car agian, I'll let him have his touch up work for the "we finance anybody" car lots. He even asked me to recomend him to friends, I will let the work speak for itself and make sure to mention who did it.
Click to expand...

Ever see the quality of the factory paint in a 67 Dart engine compartment?
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
Exactly! If shops today, painted these cars like they did at the factory, everyone would be asking for their "Paint Job" money back.

lol
Click to expand...


Thats why I stopped blocking mine. I figured after blocking it 4 times it was still going to be way nicer then it was new, LOL
 
340plot said:
i disagree idaho. base clear is harder to repair, espialyy if his problems were in the base coat.
Click to expand...

If the problem is in the base, there's no advantage. But I think most problems occur in the clear, which is potentially repairable with sanding and buffing and may not even need a re-spray. I would suspect where it seems thin, it may have went on dry and respond to this. Good chance the base coat is OK.
Bummer either way. Get someone who knows BC/CC painting to look at it give you some advice.
 
Its much harder to make repairs like this with single stage. Just buffing,
 

Attachments

  • 558365_10151009216711199_1541581113_n.jpg
    88.2 KB · Views: 163
  • 264017_10151009217016199_2015308937_n.jpg
    99.1 KB · Views: 148
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top