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If you want the race stuff go to Summit: Search Results for mopar flexplate bolts

I have a large coffee can full of used flexplate and converter bolts. I sell them for $5 a set plus the ride. That would be the 6 flexplate bolts and the 4 converter bolts. PM with an email address for pics

As said before an 8 1/4 from a 73 and later A body or even an F body. It can be had for around $200 sometimes with a posi and if you get the spring plates and driveshaft from the donor car, it's a bolt in swap. An 8 1'4 will stand up to the healthiest of stock motors.

OK, here's the deal: Everybody here can agree that a rebuilt unit is better than a used one. Hell, you could even BUY a rebuilt one if that's what you want! But for those of us on a budget, You may want to spend less on a good used one! I spent years buying rears at swap meets and selling them...

You don't HAVE to take it apart! Get a friend and two axles. Lay the unit on the floor and insert both axles. Have your friend hold one axle and you grip the other. Then turn the axles against each other. Your buddy turns one way and you the other. The unit should not slip or even "click"...

You can check the condition of the sure grip before you buy if you have a couple of axles and a friend. With the chunk laying on the ground or floor,Stick one axle in one side and the remaining axle in the other. Have your friend twist his axle one way while you turn yours against it. It should...

I The problem with that theory would be that the open units and the later cone type rears do not have removable thrust blocks so that IF that were the case, you would not be able to use them with green bearings. I do not think this is the case. The thrust block IS necessary when running stock...

Make sure you have addressed the thrust block depending on which type of axle bearings you have He did not say if the 323 unit was a sure grip or open unit. The thrust block is only an issue with rear housings that have been converted to green bearings and center sections running the "old...

If you bought the entire 489 "chunk" which is what we call the preassembled unit, it will swap with no problem. You take out the unit with the 276 gears and install the whole unit with the 323s. About the only thing that can be different is the yoke size. As stated already, They make two: a...

I believe I posted a very clear and accurate retail and wholesale and parts price guide above.

They were used in trucks, delivery vans and many muscle cars made before 68

Here's the way I always put it: Everybody knows that the Hemi is the best motor out there. And the 440 is a pretty good second place. But no one throws out a 383 because they are WEAKER than the others! A 741 case 8 3/4 will hold up to tons of abuse, especially with street tires. It's the old...

As a person who sells them all the time, I'll actually put a price on it for you: Since we have established that it's NOT a sure grip, depending on the condition of the ring gear $50-$75 is what I would SELL it for. I get $100 for 741 open rears with no damage. It would actually part out...

I can't tell from the pics if that's a sure grip or open rear. Is it completely enclosed? or can you freely see the spider gears? If it's a sure grip and you want to test to see if it's good, get a friend and get two axles. Put one axle in each side. Have your friend turn his axle with you...

gregpurcell, I assume you mean if I grind the weld off the 360 converter and install it on my 340? You believe if I doi that I may have to use the 360 Flex plate? The factory high stall converter sometimes used a different size flex plate than the normal stall. They only make two different...

But not all 727 converters will interchange between the different years and "lock up transmissions" etc. The 340 converter could be higher stall BUT it MIGHT not fit into the 360 trans. We know the 360 unit is in and working so it's the easiest possibility. Be advised that it may be necessary...

The 360 is a cast crank, externally balanced engine with weights welded to the factory converter. It should either have one weight tack welded on near the drain plug or two smaller weights on either side of the plug. The 69 340 is an internally balanced steel crank motor that doesn't use balance...

Does your unit still have the thrust pin in it? That is the three piece "pin" that tends to fall out on clutch style units. It consists of two halves held together by a very small roll pin (about the size of a pencil lead) when the roll pin breaks, the thrust pin halves will fall out the next...

Someone quite possibly changed the yoke on the rear and didn't get the nut tight. BTW Dr Diff is now stocking the two sided U joint

You know? There was an earlier post about swapping the entire rear (drum to drum) to a 7 1/4. I didn't give that much credence, but I started thinking about it while I was driving down the road! You would ACTUALLY want to get an 8 1/4. It's about as cheap as a 7 1/4 and a lot stronger. It would...

BTW you asked for the instructions: #1 Put a floor jack under the rear and raise the car. Jack stands are good for safety. Remove the tires and brake drums. #2. There are five 9/16 nuts that hold the backing plate to the housing on each side. Remove them. NOTE: On the passenger side, you will...

In my day MANY guys ran the deeper gears for the weekend drags and changed the pumpkin for the daily drive. I just sold a 741 case 276 open complete center section for $100. There was nothing wrong with it. You can still find them at swap meets and online. Buying and setting up a ring and pinion...

The 904s are the same but as stated above the 71/4 and 8 1/4 and 8 3/4 use slightly different lengths.

There's a lot of good info posted above, but in my experience, it's never close. Either you have a very shallow hole like the one posted in the top picture that's NOT drilled, or you have a hole deep enough to stick your index finger into about to the second knuckle.

If you wanted to make it a 4 speed OD, The 833 4 speed overdrive was used in the later 73-76 Darts and can be used in the earlier ones as well. I have most of the parts to do the conversion except for the trans which is the same on slant six or v8 cars. I'll also be bringing it to Carlisle if it...

Herbs parts herbsparts.com sell the entire setups http://www.herbsparts.com/products.asp?cat=849

Can I use the linkage from the 904 column shift on the 727 console shift? Not easily, but you could pr0bably use most of the floor shift parts from the 71. Most A/B/E console shift cars used similiar pieces so they are not terribly hard to find. I suppose if you are very good with torches and...

Some later truck transmissions don't have the two holes/tabs/ears at the front of the tailshaft necessary to bolt on the console shifter downshaft linkage retainer. If you use a column shifter this is not a problem, otherwise some fabrication will be necessary

Is it possible that the shift lever is slipping on the shaft and not moving the drop down shaft? There is a bolt and nut on the side of the shift arm that tightens down the arm. Perhaps it is loose?

To summarize what's already been said, the best B body rear to use in an A body is the 65-67 B body rear, followed by the 68-70 B body rear which is roughly 1/4 inch wider. Even the 68-70 is only 3 inches wider which translates to 1 1/2 inches in extra width on each side. More importantly, the...