Flyinbrian72duster
Dart and duster
I bought a clutch type center for my build is there a way to check if it's good or needs rebuild before it's in the third member or in the car
.I bought a clutch type center for my build is there a way to check if it's good or needs rebuild before it's in the third member or in the car View attachment 1715254540
Bought it for a 100 bucks guy got it from a friend been sitting aroundWas there any implication when you bought it that it would need to be rebuilt? Like the person said they only had it in their car for a certain amount of time or something?
Buttons are thereThese have two spacer "buttons" held together by a long roll pin. Be sure these are in place and the roll pin is not broken. These are needed to properly adjust the axle end play.
Thanks looks like I'll have it gone through dont know if I wanna mess with thatI took mine apart before installing it, best now than have to tear it down again.
I would mark the case at the seam so you know how it aligns when putting it back together.
And, the clutches are in a specific order....in a specific direction, a couple are concave, so it's important to keep them in the exact order.
Thanks looks like I'll have it gone through dont know if I wanna mess with that
Pull it apart. Who knows, you might learn something...Bought it for a 100 bucks guy got it from a friend been sitting around
I hear ya better safe than sorryPull it apart. Who knows, you might learn something...
A friend-of-a-friend ain't good history.
just start a little rebuild thread and take pictures as you take it apart and as you put it back together and let the people here who know kind of guide you through it a little bit. Just like they already are doing. I'm sure there's a lot more expensive things that you're going to have to pay for like setting the rear end up or something and this is a good place to save a little. something that looks like it could be done with mostly common tools or a rented one at worst. Also it's something you can bring inside even if you didn't have a garage.I hear ya better safe than sorry
I will do that thanksYou don't HAVE to take it apart! Get a friend and two axles. Lay the unit on the floor and insert both axles. Have your friend hold one axle and you grip the other. Then turn the axles against each other. Your buddy turns one way and you the other. The unit should not slip or even "click". Whichever of you is stronger should be able to turn the other over without the unit ever having any "give"
I've seen blown units that would freely turn like an open rear (obviously blown) and some that would slip a little when the pressure was put on it (starting to go).
I can see this as a sure-fire test to see if it's shot, but really is it a test to see if it's really good? I don't know I'm just asking.You don't HAVE to take it apart! Get a friend and two axles. Lay the unit on the floor and insert both axles. Have your friend hold one axle and you grip the other. Then turn the axles against each other. Your buddy turns one way and you the other. The unit should not slip or even "click". Whichever of you is stronger should be able to turn the other over without the unit ever having any "give"
I've seen blown units that would freely turn like an open rear (obviously blown) and some that would slip a little when the pressure was put on it (starting to go).
Awe man I knew this would happen lolI can see this as a sure-fire test to see if it's shot, but really is it a test to see if it's really good? I don't know I'm just asking.
And also after hearing that I would have definitely giving it a try LOL but again is that what the book says? What book? LOL
Pull it apart. Who knows, you might learn something...
A friend-of-a-friend ain't good history.
Assuming the housing has stock wheel/axle bearings. If it has the Green wheel bearing retrofit, take the buttons out.These have two spacer "buttons" held together by a long roll pin. Be sure these are in place and the roll pin is not broken. These are needed to properly adjust the axle end play.
I'm gonna use green bearingsAssuming the housing has stock wheel/axle bearings. If it has the Green wheel bearing retrofit, take the buttons out.
Like I said when you gave your advice the first post I would have tried it and this is good addition.OK, here's the deal: Everybody here can agree that a rebuilt unit is better than a used one. Hell, you could even BUY a rebuilt one if that's what you want! But for those of us on a budget, You may want to spend less on a good used one! I spent years buying rears at swap meets and selling them as used units. The OP asked for a simple way to tell if it needs rebuilt. I offered it. I used to take two shortened axles with handles welded to them to test every rear I bought. Doing the axle test will tell you three things: #1.Either it's DEFINATELY blown and needs rebuilt or #2 It's starting to go and should be rebuilt, or #3 It's probably good and can be run as is.
Could you rebuild one that tested good? Certainly! Would that be better? If you have the money SURE!
But just like buying a 50k mile motor from a wrecked car, if it has good compression and oil pressure you could probably run it without spending any money on it. And if it does fail later? rebuild it then!
Every rear I ever tested gave me great service without having to spend money on a rebuild.
BTW you do NOT have to remove the center thrust pin to run green bearings but you DO have to have them to run stock bearings. If they are in, leave them be. (Before the trolls start, This has been verified by Dr Diff)