Sure grip question

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Flyinbrian72duster

Flyinbrian72duster

Dart and duster
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I bought a clutch type center for my build is there a way to check if it's good or needs rebuild before it's in the third member or in the car
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Disassemble and inspect the friction plates. Are they blued and warped due to over-heating? If they appear normal and not worn, you can reuse them.
 
I took mine apart before installing it, best now than have to tear it down again.

I would mark the case at the seam so you know how it aligns when putting it back together.

And, the clutches are in a specific order....in a specific direction, a couple are concave, so it's important to keep them in the exact order.
 
These have two spacer "buttons" held together by a long roll pin. Be sure these are in place and the roll pin is not broken. These are needed to properly adjust the axle end play.
 
Was there any implication when you bought it that it would need to be rebuilt? Like the person said they only had it in their car for a certain amount of time or something?
 
j par said:
Was there any implication when you bought it that it would need to be rebuilt? Like the person said they only had it in their car for a certain amount of time or something?
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Bought it for a 100 bucks guy got it from a friend been sitting around
 
Murray said:
These have two spacer "buttons" held together by a long roll pin. Be sure these are in place and the roll pin is not broken. These are needed to properly adjust the axle end play.
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Buttons are there
Bad Sport said:
I took mine apart before installing it, best now than have to tear it down again.

I would mark the case at the seam so you know how it aligns when putting it back together.

And, the clutches are in a specific order....in a specific direction, a couple are concave, so it's important to keep them in the exact order.
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Thanks looks like I'll have it gone through dont know if I wanna mess with that
 
You don't HAVE to take it apart! Get a friend and two axles. Lay the unit on the floor and insert both axles. Have your friend hold one axle and you grip the other. Then turn the axles against each other. Your buddy turns one way and you the other. The unit should not slip or even "click". Whichever of you is stronger should be able to turn the other over without the unit ever having any "give"
I've seen blown units that would freely turn like an open rear (obviously blown) and some that would slip a little when the pressure was put on it (starting to go).
 
Flyinbrian72duster said:
I hear ya better safe than sorry
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just start a little rebuild thread and take pictures as you take it apart and as you put it back together and let the people here who know kind of guide you through it a little bit. Just like they already are doing. I'm sure there's a lot more expensive things that you're going to have to pay for like setting the rear end up or something and this is a good place to save a little. something that looks like it could be done with mostly common tools or a rented one at worst. Also it's something you can bring inside even if you didn't have a garage.
 
gregpurcell said:
You don't HAVE to take it apart! Get a friend and two axles. Lay the unit on the floor and insert both axles. Have your friend hold one axle and you grip the other. Then turn the axles against each other. Your buddy turns one way and you the other. The unit should not slip or even "click". Whichever of you is stronger should be able to turn the other over without the unit ever having any "give"
I've seen blown units that would freely turn like an open rear (obviously blown) and some that would slip a little when the pressure was put on it (starting to go).
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I will do that thanks
 
gregpurcell said:
You don't HAVE to take it apart! Get a friend and two axles. Lay the unit on the floor and insert both axles. Have your friend hold one axle and you grip the other. Then turn the axles against each other. Your buddy turns one way and you the other. The unit should not slip or even "click". Whichever of you is stronger should be able to turn the other over without the unit ever having any "give"
I've seen blown units that would freely turn like an open rear (obviously blown) and some that would slip a little when the pressure was put on it (starting to go).
Click to expand...
I can see this as a sure-fire test to see if it's shot, but really is it a test to see if it's really good? I don't know I'm just asking.
And also after hearing that I would have definitely giving it a try LOL but again is that what the book says? What book? LOL
 
j par said:
I can see this as a sure-fire test to see if it's shot, but really is it a test to see if it's really good? I don't know I'm just asking.
And also after hearing that I would have definitely giving it a try LOL but again is that what the book says? What book? LOL
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Awe man I knew this would happen lol
 
j par said:
Pull it apart. Who knows, you might learn something...
A friend-of-a-friend ain't good history.
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A friend of a friend sold a friend a Gear Vendors OD and after all the modding of the floor, shortening the driveline and setting up the wiring it was trashed and didn't work.
That's why I tell people to consider anything without documentation proof as a core.
 
Every used one I have bought passed the twin axle 'torque test'.

I opened them up anyway, blued metal from heat & worn clutches.

Dr. Diff has the rebuilt kits at a very fair price.
 
Murray said:
These have two spacer "buttons" held together by a long roll pin. Be sure these are in place and the roll pin is not broken. These are needed to properly adjust the axle end play.
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Assuming the housing has stock wheel/axle bearings. If it has the Green wheel bearing retrofit, take the buttons out.
 
Just a little extra . Greg said above doing the break-away test with a set of axles. I cut 2 axle stubs about 6'' of the spline area. Using a grinder flattened spots to chuck the stub in a vise.Place the sure grip on the spline stub,insert the stub and try to turn with a pipe wrench.Resistance should be felt till break-away.I'll do this with the cone type.
As said above the clutch type that is rebuildable,I agree,check and replace the worn parts and be done with it.
 
OK, here's the deal: Everybody here can agree that a rebuilt unit is better than a used one. Hell, you could even BUY a rebuilt one if that's what you want! But for those of us on a budget, You may want to spend less on a good used one! I spent years buying rears at swap meets and selling them as used units.

The OP asked for a simple way to tell if it needs rebuilt. I offered it.

I also used to take two shortened axles with handles welded to them to swap meets to test every rear I bought. Doing the axle test will tell you three things: #1.Either it's DEFINATELY blown and needs rebuilt or #2 It's starting to go and should be rebuilt, or #3 It's probably good and can be run as is.

Could you rebuild one that tested good? Certainly! Would that be better? If you have the money SURE!

But just like buying a 50k mile motor from a wrecked car, if it has good compression and oil pressure you could probably run it without spending any money on it. And if it does fail later? rebuild it then!

Every rear I ever tested gave me great service without having to spend money on a rebuild.

BTW you do NOT have to remove the center thrust pin to run green bearings but you DO have to have them to run stock bearings. If they are in, leave them be. (Before the trolls start, This has been verified by Dr Diff)
 
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gregpurcell said:
OK, here's the deal: Everybody here can agree that a rebuilt unit is better than a used one. Hell, you could even BUY a rebuilt one if that's what you want! But for those of us on a budget, You may want to spend less on a good used one! I spent years buying rears at swap meets and selling them as used units. The OP asked for a simple way to tell if it needs rebuilt. I offered it. I used to take two shortened axles with handles welded to them to test every rear I bought. Doing the axle test will tell you three things: #1.Either it's DEFINATELY blown and needs rebuilt or #2 It's starting to go and should be rebuilt, or #3 It's probably good and can be run as is.

Could you rebuild one that tested good? Certainly! Would that be better? If you have the money SURE!

But just like buying a 50k mile motor from a wrecked car, if it has good compression and oil pressure you could probably run it without spending any money on it. And if it does fail later? rebuild it then!

Every rear I ever tested gave me great service without having to spend money on a rebuild.

BTW you do NOT have to remove the center thrust pin to run green bearings but you DO have to have them to run stock bearings. If they are in, leave them be. (Before the trolls start, This has been verified by Dr Diff)
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Like I said when you gave your advice the first post I would have tried it and this is good addition.
 
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