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I think the bypass is 3/4" NPT to 1" hose and the heater hose is 1/2" NPT to 5/8" hose. Take your plugs with you for comparison or look on this page... http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=intake%20manifold%20hose%20fittings Also noticed that...

Why isn't your bypass hose hooked up? I can see a loop from the water pump connection to the water pump heater hose connection and a plug in the intake manifold water passage. The purpose of the bypass hose is to allow coolant to circulate in the block until the engine has warmed up enough for...

Never said the gauge was "accurate" just reported what I have noticed over 40 some odd years of driving Mopars from A to C with engines from RG to Hemi. Had a '71 Sport Suburban with a 360 that ran roughly 1/8" past the end of the cold range and considered that running hot. As far as "what good...

I've never had one that ran much more than 1 or 2 needle widths past the cold end of the operating range. Once or twice the needle got to the middle of the gauge range, but by then they were blowing steam out of the overflow. Don't worry about it, it's normal, in Moparworld...

If you're talking about the hex heads in the pic, take 'em out. Shouldn't be anything falling out of there unless you have a rodent problem...

Inside should be a straight rod with a flap attached pivoting on 2 bushings. Look along the bottom front edge of the heater box and you should see 2 or 3 flat clips. Pop those off and a section of heater box can be removed to access the heater core. Just to the right of the heater core you will...

Hose it down with PB Blaster and keep working it until it loosens up...

These may help. Just replace the idler pulley with an A/C compressor...

Make sure the heat is turned off. Start the car. Go under the hood and pull the vacuum line off the heat control valve. If it sucks you need the second valve...

Funny how these things work out. You started out wanting a working heater and you may have solved the same problem for a bunch of people. We now know that a blower motor from a Jeep Grand Cherokee will work in an A body. They are a lot easier to find and will be around for a lot of years. Which...

That plug you found is for one of those PITA buzzers. Can't remember right off if it's seat belt or key in the ignition. Which one of yours ain't working? In any case you can tape that one up and tuck it back up under the dash...

If your temp gauge is running about one needle width off the cold side of the normal temp range, that is normal. Mopars don't run in the middle of the gauge. That's how the gauge is set up to run. Before fuel infection, cars came from the factory with 180 degree thermostats. 195s came along with...

Glad I could help....

This might work.... http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/usa-made-12-volt-ducted-heater.html

180 will work fine. Anything below 195 will sure screw up a fuel infection system though.

Do you have a ground strap from the engine to the chassis? MaMopar didn't use them for nothing.

Don't know if this will fix your problem or not, but the owner's manual for my '66 Valiant calls for a 16 lb. cap. 13 may be a little low and cause your problem.

Which do you prefer? It's your car.

Try bumping your idle speed up 100-200 RPM. Sounds to me like the A/C and reverse are loading the engine too much and causing it to die. The drag from the A/C compressor will slow the starter enough that you will have starting problems. Try getting into the habit of turning the A/C off when you...

Put it on the stove in a pan of water with a meat thermometer and you will know soon enough. Betcha it's either 160 or 180 since big blocks never had fuel infection.

3 or 4 ounces is a good starting point. I'm sure somebody can be more precise than that.

I know that a radiator out of a '65 Dart will bolt into a '77 Volare. Did that once. Don't see why a '67 radiator wouldn't bolt into your '66. Might have to change water pumps if the '67 outlet is on the passenger side, or have the outlet moved. If the tanks are decent, why not just take what...

Try swapping the water pump housing from the 383 to the 400.

So what's the problem? Only had one Mopar run a temperature higher than that since 1967. It was a 71 Sport Suburban with a 360 that liked to run about 1/8" past the left mark. If they got to the middle of the gauge they were boiling. The only cars I have seen that like to run with the temp gauge...

Don't see why not if you can get a parts store to let you root around in their hoses.

The "problem" you are describing is not a problem. All the Mopars I have owned over the years (40), except one, ran the temp gauge at the left edge of the normal range. That one got to the middle of the gauge. It was a 360 in a 71 Sport Fury. By and large, Mopars don't run in the middle of the...

67-69 big block Dart or Barracuda would be a good start. Should work in a 72 with the right radiator.

If you think this is a PITA, try a 170 slant or an FE Ford (pull the water pump). Sometimes stock is best because it works. If you really want the silicone hose, get some stock nipples. They are quite a bit shorter than the ones you have and the hose completely covers them anyway. The hose will...

Did you change the water pump? If so, did you wind up with a reverse rotation Magnum pump by mistake? Did you use the 340 to replace a 318? I bring that up because the first 340 I had caused some anxious moments; the temp gauge was suddenly in the middle of the range and I was used to seeing it...