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Pull the distributor cap so you can see the arm coming out of the can. Suck on the vacuum hose and see if the arm moves. if it does the can is OK. Might just need some light oil (3in1 or Hoppes) on the advance mechanism. Might want to try adjusting the can if it's good and oiling things up...

Three words: Don't use it. Aluminum wire corrodes at a rapid rate compared to copper, and this corrosion raises the resistance of the wire to the point that it is a fire hazard. Especially in high current circuits. Copper cladding reduces the corrosion problem but adds the variable of surface...

Who cares? It's a Chevrolet, you expect it to break...

Starter drive is jammed on flywheel teeth. Turn the engine backwards and it should pop out. You may need to drop the tranny dust cover so you can get in with a long, heavy screwdriver or pry bar and crank the flywheel backwards. These are the times that it sucks that slants don't have a damper...

I would wire it into the +12V side of the ballast resistor. You need a switched 12V source or the choke will never open fully. The + side of the coil would only give you 7-8V if you still have a Mopar ignition. Wiring the choke to a constant 12V source will burn it out if the battery doesn't go...

That sender should do nicely. Something else to check. There is a short piece of rubber hose that connects between the fuel line running to the front of the car and the line coming out of the tank at the sender. There is supposed to be a flat metal strap that clips to the fuel lines on either...

Are you absolutely certain?

Got brake lights?

Gonna pass along something I figured out about wires a long time ago. If everything you need works when you need it to, the engine starts and stops when you tell it to, and nothing bursts into flames or throws sparks at odd times, tape it off to get it out of sight and forget about it...

And this post contributes what useful information to fixing the OP's problem? Used to be, if you can't help leave it alone and move on. I can remember when this sort of crap never showed it's ugly head on this site. What's happened? I'm getting a clearer picture as to why memike rarely posts...

Try changing out the ballast first. That's cheap and those things will go bad if you sneeze on them wrong. That only leaves the ECM and the coil...

That darned EMP will get you every time. That's why I always keep a points distributor around. And also why I won't weld on a car until all the electronics are out of it. Learned that lesson when an airbag controller decided to go poof while I was welding up a crack in a bumper...

Sounds to me like the regulator is fried for sure. Disconnect it and see what the voltage measures from the charge lug to ground. If it ain't at least 13.5V the alternator is fried as well. Unregulated alternator output should be 14.5-16.5V...

No, they are turned into a miracle drug (read horribly expensive) called Hyalgan that is injected into arthritic joints to stimulate regrowth of cartilage, but I digress. The comb in your transmission is metal. The end of the switch is plastic. I'm thinking that the terminals inside the wiring...

Lucky for you that new replacements have electronic guts. Electronic ignitions don't last too long running on squarewaves put out by mechanical regulators...

Congrats and welcome to the club. Now you understand the wisdom of carrying a spare in the glovebox...

So how come my Charger would crank all day but never fire if you didn't buckle the belt after sitting down but before you turned the key? Think maybe B bodies were different? I know the control box was not like the ones pictured and was mounted on the firewall between the heater fan motor and...

Since this is a '74.... Gotta ask, has all the seat belt interlock crap been removed? It only existed to kill the ignition when you were trying to start the car without buckling up. There are sensors under the front seats that need to be unplugged. They look like a brake light switch with a...

We called them condensers. Looks like you are running a Pertronix or some other electronic conversion and if that is true you can safely sh*t can it. They extended the life of points by bypassing RF energy to ground and reducing the amount of arcing that occurred when the points opened and...

That'll do it. When you get a replacement buy 2 and always keep one in the glovebox for just in case...

2 prong ballast resistor. They can start smoking for as stupid a reason as I did. Replace it and if the new one starts smoking you have a bad coil...

Here ya go...

Seat belt buzzer=3 or 4 ounces of useless weight. Toss it and enjoy the extra .048 horsepower you just picked up... :burnout: and the peace and quiet...

Good rule of thumb. If it's disconnected, the car runs, and everything you need still works, it can go in the s**t can....

Solid core wires give off RF interference that would blow the MSD's mind. One of the many reasons I'm not a fan of electronic crap on cars....

My Jeep distributor has a slot on the end like that for the oil pump drive, but that's the only similarity....

I've lived without this sort of frippery for 60 years now and can probably hang on for the few years I have left. My question is why do you want to spend good money to make things easier for car thieves?????

No, with 2 batteries you can draw more current without a large voltage drop. You don't need 100 amps to charge a battery. If that were true trickle chargers for battery maintenance would be totally useless. Like your comment.....

Don't knock it if you haven't tried it....

It's a lot cheaper and just as effective to put 2 batteries in the trunk......