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I had springs re-arched and they held up...but that only works if they are made of good quality spring steel. The same goes for new springs. I bought Espo springs. Some say theirs sagged over time but mine never did. If you get yours re-arched they will try to do them one at a time to extend...

The only caveat to AJ's info is raising the front end causes the upper A arm ball joint to move forward diminishing caster which is already difficult to obtain on our old A bodies. The factory settings were optimal for handling and steering so watch out and watch it.

I think your car looks fine...the way it's supposed to. Not a fan of that "jacked" look? Here's my old Duster. With new springs i had to make new perches for the front of the spring to lower it because there was too much air above the rear tire and it sat too high for me? With it at the correct...

I agree..higher in the rear is preferred by a lot of guys. I'm just not one of them.

i don't get the high rear look? It will ruin your handling. And then if you raise the front it will remove caster making matters worse. Listen Johnny Dart and go stock, it will look and handle better.

Correct, early and later strut rods don't interchange and neither do the bushings. Don't the early one piece install taper forward? And yes, a roll pin not cotter pin. I wonder if using the wrong bushing is messing up the caster on some early front ends leaving guys to believe they need the...

most guys leave 'em off. However if it's a resto or you daily drive it in gravel i'd use them.

yes..I always grind about 1/8" off the "stop" for more turning radius

i can't count the number of posts/threads that insist you need offset upper bushings. I have never used them or saw the need. My vehicles all steer and self centre fine with stock replacements. Are you sure you needed them?

tx guys..i liked them but didn't use them for long. Good to get the info out there for the next guy!

purchased them from a friend but they were new. Maybe made in Mexico but that's a guess?

Our spring shop pointed out the test marks on mine and told me the quality was high. Maybe mine were old stock and recent ones are poor quality?

Mopar Performance circle track springs are an option.No...they are not stiff, the ride is excellent, i have used them.They will lower the rear, improve handling and have height adjustments. I believe they are still available and reasonably priced.

Stock they sat quite low and handled well.First thing most guys do is jack them up and if you go to the wheel tire section you'll find the height all over the place. A good starting point would be to have the wheel opening a couple of inches above the top edge of the rim.

Thinking' about this...maybe a bit of heat and gentle persuasion or get the hacksaw, some tubing and turn the welder on.

Great post...i have never installed headers but now that guys realize early manifolds are not being made those selling are really trying to cash in. Dougs' headers are a bargain at about $500.00

What others think is not important, you gotta' be happy with it!

I'm into this right now..and am in need of an early 2 groove crank pulley...anybody? How about a couple of pics.

Keeping the suspension at stock or lower ride height will help with positive caster as well

Maybe i've been lucky but i've always just installed stock pieces and have never had a problem.I think it's necessary to have components that are in nice original condition rather than beat up rusty parts.

get a piece of 1 1/2" x 3" 1/8" wall square tubing and cut a diagonal on a 2 1/2" piece. Drill a hole, trim and shape if you're fussy or just weld 'em on.

i made one out of a coat hanger years ago...just clear coat it so it doesn't rust. ..but stainless welding rod would work best!

i think stock looks best but it is a personal thing.

i have both manual and power columns guys..i was just wondering if anybody used that option. I have snapped the plastic retainer and saw how the shafts are configured.I don't see why it wouldn't work.Once connected it can't come out and the collapsing safety feature would still be in Tact?

do you know anybody who extended the steering shaft to make a manual from a power column. How much meat is there?

That was a fantastic build thread ...congrats! ...the B body 8 3/4 you installed have the 15 x 7 rallies with 275 60R15? Looks great!

What backspace on the 6 1/2 Rallies...4.25? Tx guys...any pictures?

How about a picture

For those using a B body 8 3/4 in a Duster, what wheel, backspace and tire combination did you use? Would 15" x 6" or 6 1/2" be a good fit?

how much power are you making and are you running a drag radial or slick?