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I let it run for a few minutes and it fluttered between 13.4 and 13.5.

I just bit the bullet and replaced the alternator and voltage regulator with the newer late model "square" backs. I am getting good charging and PLENTY of amps. I went with a 78 amp unit.

So I pulled the alternator off and I get open on the each ground to field and about 22.4-22.9 ohms of resistance from field to field. I double checked the voltage out again and it is still floating around 11.7-11.9. I am ground on the thermostat body bolt. I checked across the lugs of the...

Ok so I did forget to remove the second field connection which was to ground. I tested again after and I got open from field 1 to ground and field 2 to ground. Based on what your original post asked me to do you want me to measure the resistance on the wire from regulator field to field...

I guess its time to upgrade. I misread initially what 67Dart273 said and I measured from the field on the alternator to ground and I got exactly 0 resistance or complete short. I also tested the output on the lug and got about 11.94. Well time to shop what year did the new voltage regulator...

Yes the second field is grounded as is the regulator. I am getting voltage on the ignition side because I am able to start the car but the battery is not charging most likely from the low output from the alternator.

I think your issue is actually something different. I believe you may be having an impedance issue. I do not know what the impedance is of the original radio but standard is 8 ohms. The speaker is my 65 Barracuda ran a single wire to the radio and one to ground. If you wired both speakers by...

I know I should know this but for whatever reason I just can not remember nor can I find it. I am getting about 11.8 volts out of the alternator on the charge lug. On the voltage regulator I am getting nothing out of the field and about 12 volts on the input side. I do have a 2 field alternator...

Okay sorry nevermind I jumped to conclusions. I charged the battery some and gave it a try again looks like the battery was low and I may have flooded the engine.

No I did not power the fans from the ignition signal. The controller has an ignition signal line. It is supposed to get power when the ignition is on just like your radio to indicate the ignition switch is on. The problem is I actually plugged the ignition signal line for the fans in the field...

Ok I tried to find my answer ad I'm sure it is here but simply cant. My 65 barracuda slant six won't start. I was hooking up electric fans I wired the positive to my battery terminal strip and the ignition source for the fans to the top of the voltage regulator. Went to start the car to check...

Thankfully it was easy to fix. After a week of fighting with various things this was the easiest to fix. I had a wire connected wrong and was not feeding battery to the voltage regulator. Fixed that and now I have charger 14.2 volts. By the way JKirk I am going to be at Shades of the Past this...

I am using the older style regulator and I am grounding 1 of the 2 fields. I am not positive I am using a 70's or later and I am not at home at the moment.

I am using the 2 field alternator. I will use this checklist and work through it. I think after putting the new motor in I either broke a wire/terminal or just didn't hook something up. I don't think its the alternator or regulator though.

Okay so I have a no charge situation and my brain is just not working. I understand the wiring diagrams and I know I am not getting voltage at the regulator but I can not figure out if I should be getting from the field or ignition side. Brain is just fried. I am thinking the ignition side that...

I double checked the fuse and I swear when I looked last night it looked good but today it was definitely burnt. I replaced it and it fixed the taillights. This morning I turned the headlights on and I did not see the interior lights glow so hopefully replacing the fuse fixed it. I will know later.

Last night I went through the wiring diagrams in the service manual and it does not show the brake light switch. Best I can come up with is maybe I blew the ignition switch? Possibly the headlight switch. Any suggestions at all?

The other day I did the single to dual master cylinder upgrade. While I was disconnecting the brake pedal I saw a few sparks I assumed I had grounded the brake switch. I hit it one more time after that. Now I have no instrument lights or tail lights and oddly enough my interior lights glow when...

Well then I am going to throw this out there I just picked up my distributor for my new engine build. How do I get your HEI toy? What do I need to do differently with it?

I have been in the switch a couple of times. I cleaned it applied some wd40 to the contacts and reassembled. The problem is it keeps shorting to ground.

I agree the system is wierd and there are dozens of different intermittent wiper switches. There is one on eBay right now that matches my number but it is 250 dollars gah. I almost choked when I saw that. That is when I looked into other ideas. I like the idea of the mustang switch because they...

Okay so my wiper switch is and has been blown but replacements when are hard to come by and crazy expensive. Has anyone thought or tried any alternatives? IE Intermittent wiper circuits or other wiper switchs? I have looks at the intermittent wiper circuits and I think they would work but how...

Okay I am looking to replace the wiring harness in the engine bay. I found one from Year One and Evans Wiring but Evans does not include the front lights harness. Does anybody else sell the engine bay and forward lights harness? YearOne

This appears to be the right connector. http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Electrical_Terminal_14_12_Gauge_1_4_Female_p/a15504.htm There is definitely some corrosion on the connector and housing is good enough. I tried to clean the connector but still not getting a good connection. I am also...

My driver side front turn signal is not working. I have determined it is being caused by a bad connector. Can someone tell me either how to disassemble the connector or where to get a replacement? It is 14 gauge with a t shaped connector. Top connector is horizontal and bottom is vertical...

67Dart273 Thank you for the diagram. I am thinking this maybe a winter project. I am on a quest to get the best performance I can out of my little slant six so far I am doing pretty good. I do believe my "*** in the seat" test last night has indicated some correction at very least. The car is...

I appreciate the advise and I will likely move to an HEI system but for now I am trying to eliminate ALL factors that could be causing my electrical gremlins. This was one of the first because the "mechanic" I had install it failed to install the ballast resistor as well as decided to run a...

Bill i already had the electronic ignition but the mechanic I paid to install it f'ed it up something royal. I was fixing that and a few split connection wires.

I figured it out I treated the dual ballast as if it were a single and run a wire from the run side to the voltage regulator and connected both the bulkhead connector and run side. Charging at 13.9 hoping this may resolve some other voltage issues.

I am getting not charge after wiring my ballast resistor back in. I have soldered EVERY connection. The car starts and I am getting 12.2-12.6 volts. I have no voltage on the IGN side of the voltage regulator. I am thinking I need to wire it in. I see in service diagram that the bottom side of...