No charging

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jhdeval

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Okay so I have a no charge situation and my brain is just not working.

I understand the wiring diagrams and I know I am not getting voltage at the regulator but I can not figure out if I should be getting from the field or ignition side. Brain is just fried. I am thinking the ignition side that being said I should be getting battery voltage correct? I should get that with the key in the run position engine off right? The wiring diagram shows 2 wires off the ignition side 1 going to the ignition and 1 going to the top of the ballast resistor. So I should get the same voltage in both places right?

Just trying to make sure I got this right because I have been fighting with everything this week.
 
If they are coming from the same node (source) then the voltage should be the same.

Trace the wires coming off of the alternator and verify that they all have good continuity with a continuity tester. Do this to the whole loop of the 'charging circuit'.
 
You still using the 69/ earlier (single field connection) setup?

You have IGN1 and IGN2 from the key.

IGN2 is the ballast bypass, is hot only in start, and goes to the coil+ side of the ballast (brown)

IGN1 is what you need here. It is hot in run, comes from the key, and goes to the "switch" side of the ballast, AND branches off and feeds the IGN terminal of the regulator

1--The regulator MUST be grounded.

2--For a very quick check, unhook the field wire at the alternator, and jumper a clip lead from the alternator field terminal to a battery connection.

Start the engine, bring up RPM and see if it charges.

If not, verify (with a meter) that you are for certain getting battery to the field. You can also hook/ unhook your clip lead, and should see a small spark from the field

3--If you've done the above, and no charge, check voltage with engine running "fast idle" at the battery. If it's low, below 14, check voltage at the alternator stud

If this voltage is low, you indeed have alternator problems

If this voltage is quite high, you have a charging wire problem, between the alternator, bulkhead connector, ammeter, and back to the battery.

4--If the above checks DO result in a charge, you either have a bad regulator or a problem in the field wiring. Hook the alternator field wire back up, unhook the regulator, and jumper the two regulator wires together.

Repeat, run engine see if there's a charge. If not with key on, check for battery voltage at the alternator field. If not, check where you jumpered the regulator wires together. If you have voltage there, you have a break in the green wire. If no voltage at the regulator IGN wire, then you have a problem where IGN1 branches off out of the bulkhead and splits from the ballast and to the regulator.

5--If the above tests DO cause the alternator to charge, and you are certain the regulator was grounded. replace the regulator.

If you buy a new alternator, and would rather have one that "works better" rather than "restore correct" ask for a mid 70's and make sure you get a "squareback." Ground one field, and wire up as your old one

The one below on the left is the superior later squareback

mopp_0112_05_z+alternator_and_regulators+replacement_alternator.jpg
 
I am using the 2 field alternator.

I will use this checklist and work through it. I think after putting the new motor in I either broke a wire/terminal or just didn't hook something up. I don't think its the alternator or regulator though.
 
OK, are you also using the newer that is, 70/ later regulator?

If so, what I told you above is not correct

And if you are using the old style regulator, you must ground one of the two field terminals
 
I am using the older style regulator and I am grounding 1 of the 2 fields. I am not positive I am using a 70's or later and I am not at home at the moment.
 
If you are grounding one field terminal, my original post holds. You would be using the 69/ earlier style regulator.

If it turns out you have a bad regulator, you can change to the 70/ later style by adding only one wire.

The 70/ later looks like so:

1970_1971.gif
 
A corroded bad connection at the bulk head is a common problem check the large red wire.
 
Thankfully it was easy to fix. After a week of fighting with various things this was the easiest to fix. I had a wire connected wrong and was not feeding battery to the voltage regulator. Fixed that and now I have charger 14.2 volts.

By the way JKirk I am going to be at Shades of the Past this year. I am staying at the Riverside Tower. Looks like "Classic Betty" will be making it to Pigeon Forge if you want to get together I will be there Wednesday-Sunday. PM and I will send you my cell number.
 
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