No charge after putting ballast

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jhdeval

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I am getting not charge after wiring my ballast resistor back in. I have soldered EVERY connection. The car starts and I am getting 12.2-12.6 volts. I have no voltage on the IGN side of the voltage regulator. I am thinking I need to wire it in. I see in service diagram that the bottom side of the resistor gets tied to the IGN of the voltage regulator. I used these instructions http://www.allpar.com/fix/electronic-ignition.html and the dual ballast resistor. Which side would I or do I need to install the voltage regulator?
 
I figured it out I treated the dual ballast as if it were a single and run a wire from the run side to the voltage regulator and connected both the bulkhead connector and run side. Charging at 13.9 hoping this may resolve some other voltage issues.
 
Basically you have TWO wires coming OUT of the bulkhead which come from the ignition switch

1--"ignition run" or "IGN 1", traditionally dark blue supplies (on older cars) the ignition system and the IGN terminal of your regulator

2--"bypass" or "IGN 2" traditionally brown, hooks to the coil+ or the coil + side of the ballast

If you are using the 4 terminal ballast, the two pins which are hooked together are hooked to the dark blue "ign run" so that junction must hook to the regulator

Be SURE you have the 4 terminal ballast in "the right way." There is a notch in the ceramic on one end The diagram you referenced does not tell you that.

Here: This diagram is not a lot better because it does not show the ignition bypass connection, which should tie in either at coil + or the bottom right of the ballast. What this DOES show you is the proper orientation of the ballast resistor

Your regulator IGN terminal should hook to the extreme top right going off the page, "existing wire" which represents the dark blue IGN1 or "RUN"

Ignition_System_5pin.jpg
 
If this is your 65 Barracuda, why are you fooling with a dual ballast? That was an early design that causes endless confusion. Indeed, why even fool with the Mopar box (that wasn't factory on your car) when an HEI module is much simpler to wire, cheaper, and performs much better.
 
Bill i already had the electronic ignition but the mechanic I paid to install it f'ed it up something royal. I was fixing that and a few split connection wires.
 
Search hei for sale here its $99. and you will be very happy u put it on.
 
If this is your 65 Barracuda, why are you fooling with a dual ballast? That was an early design that causes endless confusion. Indeed, why even fool with the Mopar box (that wasn't factory on your car) when an HEI module is much simpler to wire, cheaper, and performs much better.

Search hei for sale here its $99. and you will be very happy u put it on.


XS 10 .. ditch the ballast forever

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=203055
 
Search hei for sale here its $99. and you will be very happy u put it on.

Thank you tekslk.

If you install one of my HEI systems you could get rid of everything circled, have better starts, more power, and better MPG.
 

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I appreciate the advise and I will likely move to an HEI system but for now I am trying to eliminate ALL factors that could be causing my electrical gremlins. This was one of the first because the "mechanic" I had install it failed to install the ballast resistor as well as decided to run a "squeeze" connector from my ignition switch to the negative of the coil.
 
I appreciate the advise and I will likely move to an HEI system but for now I am trying to eliminate ALL factors that could be causing my electrical gremlins. This was one of the first because the "mechanic" I had install it failed to install the ballast resistor as well as decided to run a "squeeze" connector from my ignition switch to the negative of the coil.

in my experience with the HEI, the HEI will eliminate all your ignition electrical gremlins. its hard to diagnose without seeing exactly what you are dealing with

otherwise here are a couple diagrams that may help.
 

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JH I went to an HEI the "simple way." You read on and on how you need a great big E core coil, and ETC but I didn't go that route

There was a thread the other night about "what to get away with" insofar as heat sink for an HEI. Mine is mounted on the flat of the firewall between the heater and the wiper. There was already a small hole drilled there by the previous owner, so I made use of one of them. Notice that I use a stock factory coil, no ballast. Gone through two hot summers now Tach and power junctions are made right at the coil.

The mounting:

attachment.php


The diagram: The arrow off to the right hooks to the brown and dark blue hooked together, including the regulator "IGN" terminal. Take note of the distributor connector polarity

zu5qn8.jpg


I also threw one together for emergencies

hwlcfa.jpg


But the main reason I was spurred to build the last one is that I ended up test firing two engines, and that proved VERY handy. Hook up coil hi tension, ground, and battery, and plug in the dist. and you have fire

THAT'S RIGHT!! I fired this right up with no exhaust manifolds. If I ever build a rat, I might just use about 2" straight out for exhaust, "Rolls Merlin style"

34nf6l0.jpg


merlin.jpg
 
67Dart273 Thank you for the diagram. I am thinking this maybe a winter project. I am on a quest to get the best performance I can out of my little slant six so far I am doing pretty good. I do believe my "*** in the seat" test last night has indicated some correction at very least. The car is much more responsive.
 
Only one problem Del,,,
None of that is HEI :butthead: :D

Just a GM 4 pin ECU triggering a factory coil.
You ONLY get HEI when the higher powered ecoils or similar are used.

You know this, so lets call it what it is so that people that don't know don't get confused.



JH I went to an HEI the "simple way." You read on and on how you need a great big E core coil, and ETC but I didn't go that route

There was a thread the other night about "what to get away with" insofar as heat sink for an HEI. Mine is mounted on the flat of the firewall between the heater and the wiper. There was already a small hole drilled there by the previous owner, so I made use of one of them. Notice that I use a stock factory coil, no ballast. Gone through two hot summers now Tach and power junctions are made right at the coil.

The mounting:

attachment.php?attachmentid=1714545308&stc=1&d=1348616336.jpg


The diagram: The arrow off to the right hooks to the brown and dark blue hooked together, including the regulator "IGN" terminal. Take note of the distributor connector polarity

zu5qn8.jpg


I also threw one together for emergencies

hwlcfa.jpg


But the main reason I was spurred to build the last one is that I ended up test firing two engines, and that proved VERY handy. Hook up coil hi tension, ground, and battery, and plug in the dist. and you have fire

THAT'S RIGHT!! I fired this right up with no exhaust manifolds. If I ever build a rat, I might just use about 2" straight out for exhaust, "Rolls Merlin style"

34nf6l0.jpg


merlin.jpg
 
Well it's a GM HEI module, I have to describe that somehow. I haven't bothered to measure the spark energy, but a "bench test" of an all--stock ECU compared to this HEI with the very same coil gives a "seat of the pants" preception of a MUCH hotter spark.

Most/ all of that is probably due to elimination of the ballast, which we know you cannot do (on the street) with a Mopar ECU.

So in that sense it IS HEI. But the point is also this: You don't NEED that much more spark. Millions of vehicles ran untold miles with less, so how much is un-needed overkill? What we are talking about (in my case) is an 8.5:1? 250-300hp engine

And, we are talking about my case, and "low budget". I realize that if you don't HAVE a coil and need to buy one, you might just as well get a good E core. But I have probably 4 or 6 coils lying around, all off running engines. I don't plan on buying a new one anytime soon.

How much does a slant REALLY need?

Jes' somethun' ta think about
 
I hear ya.
It's just that everone who is using the full system is noticing better starting and performance, including me.
It was a noticable difference to say the least. (In my car anyway)
(All stock except for intake and carb)
You are probably right in that the spark is hotter on yours due to the ballast being bypassed.
So on that note, lets not call a .22 rifle with an AK trigger an assault rifle.
Ok?



Del, Seriously I'm just messing with you for the pure fun of it.
You have some really good knowledge of electrical systems in these cars and can help a lot of people with it and I really do envy that.
Ever since the "GAIN" thread you posted as a reply to one of my posts, I have made it a personal mission to screw with you about your ignition.:D


Well it's a GM HEI module, I have to describe that somehow. I haven't bothered to measure the spark energy, but a "bench test" of an all--stock ECU compared to this HEI with the very same coil gives a "seat of the pants" preception of a MUCH hotter spark.

Most/ all of that is probably due to elimination of the ballast, which we know you cannot do (on the street) with a Mopar ECU.

So in that sense it IS HEI. But the point is also this: You don't NEED that much more spark. Millions of vehicles ran untold miles with less, so how much is un-needed overkill? What we are talking about (in my case) is an 8.5:1? 250-300hp engine

And, we are talking about my case, and "low budget". I realize that if you don't HAVE a coil and need to buy one, you might just as well get a good E core. But I have probably 4 or 6 coils lying around, all off running engines. I don't plan on buying a new one anytime soon.

How much does a slant REALLY need?

Jes' somethun' ta think about
 
...
Del, Seriously I'm just messing with you for the pure fun of it.
You have some really good knowledge of electrical systems in these cars and can help a lot of people with it and I really do envy that.

xs10 , thanks Del for all you do




Ever since the "GAIN" thread you posted as a reply to one of my posts, I have made it a personal mission to screw with you about your ignition.:D

sorry i had to lol at that one :D
 
That's ok, you made actually a serious point, I guess I like to wear "low budget" like a badge of honor.
 
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