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i spend a fair amount of time on forklifts and my favorite by far is nissan the controls , shifter and seat position is the best , second would be toyota . The worst and i completly hate is catapillar there like driving a Lada . Hino and clark are better than the cat .as far as dependabilty...

thanks dowboy .

agreed i found a used millar 30a SG in oshawa ontario for a decent price but i have no way of seeing it i just got to take the sellers word that it is what he says it is .

i priced a new millar 30a pro spoolmatic which that welder requires is 3785.00 new ouch but i found a used one in oshawa ontario for 1200.00

yes my 250 is 16 years old and it has worked great so far and has burned hundreds of pounds of wire. I would buy a used Millar SG if i could find one .

my 250 mm has two plugs for the add on spoolgun one is ac and one dc .

I Have no problem with chinese spoolguns any i have used are near identical to the millar piece and work great . 1400 bucks compared to 200 bucks .

I need to build an aluminum Oyster boat and i have a Millarmatic 250 welder and need a spoolgun for aluminum and i'm having trouble finding information on which one that is compatible with my welder . Anyone using a spoolgun on their 250 Millarmatic ? '

.030 will weld just about anything you come across from bodymetal to 1/2''

like said straight Argon on steel doesn't make pretty welds .

Wow Concrete is 180.00 bucks a yard here and i was bitchin about that .

One thing i know for sure is the thicker your floor is the more efficient the heating is . i have one building with a 4'' floor and one with an 8'' -9'' floor ,the thicker floor heats better and cost less to heat over the winter . the extra cement will soon pay for itself .

around 8 or 9 psi seems to be the sweet spot . The blow off valve is most likely 15 psi .

hook it up it won't leak air will leak out where liquid won't . i have a fair amount of experience with in floor heat . on your pipe thred fittings use a thin layre of dope a wrap of tape and another layre of dope and send it . no need to over think it .

i also use them under my floor mats in the winter time it helps keep the carpet dry from salt water .

a set of broaches for cutting inside key ways .

fwiw IF you want a very durable puller i have made a few for pulling couplings of of boat shafts i use class 12.9 or grade 12 one inch fine thread and i weld a double long nut on the puller , if you use oil on the threads it will last a long time .

instead of acetylene use propane i use a 20lb tank same regulators just change your tips to propane . you will need to plum your regulator to the propane tank . just common fittings .

if your just going to heat and cut and not weld why not use propane and then you only need to buy one contract for the oxygen .

i would think 5 to 6 hundred would be on the cheap side for a decent one ?

can anyone recommend me a good solid 8'' milling machine vice that wont break the bank . thanks.

what kind of metal is the weld on ? and will you be boring through the whole weld or just catching the side like half the hole or less ?

you hit the wrong nail .

tig would be the best when I did mine I never had access or knew of anyone around here that had one so you do what you need to make it work .

yes . a 1'' npt needs a 1-5/32 hole and 1-1/4''npt needs a 1-1/2 hole . I ran a 1-5/32 drill into mine and taped the hole 1'' npt . when taping be careful remember it's tapered .

get a fitting with pipe thread on the end going into the pump and thread the pump that's what I did . or tig weld it no way would I use jb weld . jmo .

what are your favorite tools for threading inside and out . I got 5 holders now but will be getting many more .

after 22 years I finally just had enough of shimming tools every time I change from one to another so I bought a new aloris style quick change tool post for my lathe it should be here this week . I can't believe I put up with that **** for so long being frugal has it's drawbacks .

AJ would need to bring his A game for sure :eek::eek: