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I put the old ECU, ballast and finally the old coil in. The old coil worked and it fired right up. I then put the newer coil back in and it fired up. THE ONLY THING I CAN THINK OF IS THE COIL PLUG WIRE WAS NOT MAKING CONTACT IN THE COIL OR ONE OF THE TERMINAL POST WIRES WASN'T MAKING GOOD...

Car has not started on the first try lately and the tach reads correct and then bounces about a thousand low and then return back to the correct reading I knew there was a gremlin!! I got the car out and went to get gas and it didn't have spark to start at the gas station. Had to tow rope...

thank you.

The two wires coming out of the distributor are a negative and postive. Which is positive and which is negative? I am purchasing: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D850081&FROM=MG

Pull the rubber connector off the safety switch and test the switch with a electrical tester. I can't remember which two of the three pins you run the test through. Maybe someone else can chime in or take a look in the shop manual.

super70bird thank you for the link, I printed it. And as always, Dave you are a great help.

Dave, I am interested in the Radio Shack 7805 linear 5v regulator and heat sink. Are they separate items? Or is it one unit that plugs in or do I make my own connectors/wiring?

I have ran a couple tanks of gas, increased the AVS door spring tension and the ping is gone. Put the vacuum canister back to original setting and connected the vacuum to the constant side and still no ping. I am now going to move the timing back up from 14* to as near to 18* as possible. Looks...

Thanks for the advice. I have tried the "timed" passenger port and the "mainold vacuum" driver side front port and they both ping. I am going to back the initial plus mechanical down from 34* to 31*. If I get no ping in a test run with the vacuum advance disconnected I will try with it connected...

I have had a pretty good ping at higher RPM foot to the floor and hitting it to the floor in general. I checked timing with the vacuum pluggged off and was still 18*idle, 34*@ 3200rpm (which is what my FBO distributor was curved to) but for kicks after checking the timing I hooked the vacuum up...

When I pulled the old one out the plates were a different better style in my opinion. To fix the new distributor I bought a longer set screw for the gap adjustment and filed it down to a length that just touches the lower plate which stablized the wobble condition.

I did as Don instructed and the lower plate can be pryed up to touch the reluctor so the clip is gone. Sent the distributor back to Don today no questions asked. Said he will fix it and may put it on the Sun machine to make sure everything is good. This guy has reasonable pricing and if the...

The vacuum advance arm and pin are in the correct hole in the plate. Don has e-mailed me and said that under the lower plate has a pin that goes through it with a spring loaded clip. I am going to check it by seeing if the plate will pry up until it hits the bottom of the reluctor. If it does...

Fishy68, thanks for the feedback. I went to your garage, nice Cuda.

I just got a FBO Ignition kit and distributor using a FBO core. The vacum advance plate has some wobble. When I pulled it out of the packing the pickup was magneticlly attached to the reluctor. Not thinking the plate had a wobble I got my brass gage and went to set the air gap to .008 and found...

I would replace the turn signal switch. I had trouble in that the brake light would not work sometimes after using a turn signal and the switch returned to it's neutral postion. I learned that the switch not only controls the turn signal but brake light power goes throught the switch. I beleive...

Check this vendor evanswiring.tripod.com

************************************ The problem was a bad backup lights harness. Bought a new one from Evans Wiring @ evanswiring.tripod.com The harness was for a 70-71 E body automatic and the wire colors were not correct but it fit/worked great and was only $25.

It is fun you mentioned the turn signal switch. I just replaced it. I did not think it tied into the backup lights. I knew it tied into the brake lights. This a 69 Dart automatic and the wire diagram shows a brown with tracer goes to the radio and a white ties in at the radio and goes to the...

I replaced the turn signal switch and brake, turns and 4 ways work but now the backups are not working? this may be a unrelated coincidence? wiring diagram does not show they are related. no power getting to the tranny switch. tested tranny switch and it is good. no power coming from bulkhead to...

I figured it out. The hose clamp holding the tach had covered up the screws that attach the plate under the column. After removing that and the lower steering column support bracket it was a peice of cake.

New harness has the contact pins that will push into the plug and because of them I can not fish them in to start it through. Even if I do get it started do I need to loosen the steering colum bracket down below because that seems awefully tight where the harness would come out? I spent 3...

I have a brake light problem in that the turning signals work all the time but if i move the turning signal lever a little up or down while in the center postion the driver's side brake light will not work. I am replacing the turning signal cam this weekend if NAPA got me the right part. I...