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What I did on mine, right or wrong, instead of welding perimeter of K-member, I took a spot weld cutter and cut only through top layer of metal in between factory spot welds, and then plug welded each of them. Then I installed the Firm Feel K-frame stiffening kit, and rewelded around motor...

Drew, The power steering shaft, and manual shaft are interchangeable...

I changed to a manual box, and since I needed to rebuild the steering coupler, I just switched out the steering shaft for one from a manual steering car, that eliminates the need for an adapter. Bought the steering shaft from a member here, cheaper than the adapter..

There is a video series posted on here, it's for E-bodies but it basically shows step by step how to rebuild column. To get the lock plate off, you have to pop that outer sleeve/cover off, and you will see the pin. You have to be careful not to collapse the shaft during the whole process...

Maybe rebuild the coupler, while you have column out consider installing one of the E-16 bearings. Eliminates a lot of slop in the column, check it out in the "How-To" section..

I used Rustoleum black texture paint on mine, like $5.00 at home depot.

I used the ones from DMT, I have 1.03 T-bars, just some grease and they went right on.

I took the bars back out, re- adjusted the strut rods, checked for full suspension travel, re-assembled, and all seems okay now.

Fixed!!! Thank You everyone for your help!

Okay, I'm sure this has been covered, but.... 73 Duster I swapped out the k-frame, UCA, LCA, and strut rods, with all QA1 stuff. I bought Sway A Way 1.03" T-bars , how the hell do I clock these bars? I have tried it with the LCA all the way dropped, absolutely NO suspension travel, Also tried it...

I have a k-member out of 340 car. I bought the Firm Feel re-enforcement kit, should I weld the washers for the lca pivot points on?? The factory washers are already there. If I weld the additional washers on, will there still be enough clearance for lca??

Your wisdom:lol:

Maybe that "pump it down" sticky at the top of the page might help you?? I think one of the posters said that Bergman Auto craft sell a kit for p/s pumps.

$29.00 on amazon?? Rock auto sells them for like$17.50 a pair

Thank you everyone for all the insight/info. looks like I'll go with the qa1 adj. rods. I already purchased their uca's got greaseable pivot pins,new bushings,and the lca reinforcement plates. Now if this damn weather would only cooperate........

Yes it was Ehrenberg, it was in the latest issue. He states removes compliance from suspension, shock values go to infinity?? Moves the pivot point 1.5- 2"?? Heim joint do not last on the street,even with covers. I was going to try the Firm Feel ones,as they do not have joints, but are...

Has anyone used the adjustable strut rods from Firm Feel?? I recently read in 1 of the mopar tech articles that strut rods with heim joints should be avoided. I know a lot of guys are using the heim joint bars, but has anyone tried the Firm Feel ones??

I have had similar problems with Moog "problem solver" sway bay links on my 08 Dakota,although the manufactuer has covered them under warranty, and sent me replacements, I am kinda sick of replacing these every 3-3 months. Time to use a different brand, I guess...

Has anyone used the QA1 rear 6 link setup? Supposed to be bolt-in. Thinking that or the RMS rear set up. lookin to get some extra tire clearance on street/strip duster.

Listen To H22a4, The Springs Are Made That Way Due To The Torque Whan The Car Lifts On Launch

D ouble checked the part#'s 3402626 & 3402627,was told they are for an E-body.Can Iuse these for a disc conversion?

Ihope someone can give me some info.I bought a set of spindles for my duster,came w/ the caliper brackets & splash shields for discs. part #'s on the spindles is 340626 & 340627, Ithink (hard to read) what do these fit , can I use them for a disc swap on my 73 Duster??? Thnks for any help anyone...