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Here's mine I just put on. It's on a thin magnetic sheet.

I have a couple stickers I want to install but not exactly sure on proper placement. Hopefully someone can help. Battery, does this go next to the coolant sticker? A pillar sticker, does this read from the outside or inside. Words out or in? Tire pressure. Does it go above the striker?

The switch needs to be inline, between the neutral safety and the OD solenoid. Power goes in one side and out the other. So when the switch is off the circuit it's open and when on, sends 12+ to the OD solenoid.

If it's a 2 pin there's no lock up, OD only. Are you looking for automatic control or just manually switching?

Could just be me but this looks a bit like a starter solenoid and neutral safety switch. Are you trying to control OD and LU? Is this a 46RH or RE?

I'd put bearings and a cam in it. Wash everything and run Jomar non bypass filters for a while. At the end of the day it's a bit of time and a couple hundred dollars. Or he could clean it up the best he can and see what happens. I've seen worst.

Here you can see one installed

Understood but you're not selling yours as a restored 1968. I'd be interested in knowing the VIN (not yours the car in question). Just don't want someone to buy something thinking it's something it isn't. I have no dog in this fight. Just being observant. That's why it's hard to buy from...

Actually the whole front end is not original. The header panel and hood are wrong. I think it's a 68 header panel. Maybe a 67 hood. But I may have misspoke on the flip top. I think it's correct. The 69 is crested like so.

Looks like someone half arsed the whole car to flip it, like they did a spray paint restoration. Bumpers are painted. All exterior stainless and aluminum are painted silver. Interior vacuum plated chrome is painted silver. The console is silver and black, as are the grilles. I think the fuel cap...

So, hypothetically, if my pistons are .015 out of the bore I can just put .035 head gaskets on it? Piston to head clearance is no big deal?

What's proper procedure for figuring out head gasket thickness in regards to quench? I've seen everything from. 032-.065 is acceptable. I have a stroker 360(414) with forged mahle pistons and forged steel rods. I see people taking the piston protrusion and recession numbers and using the...

The oranger one is Seymour Chrysler/Ford red. The red is Rust-Oleum farm equipment Ford red.

So I have 2 Chrysler reds here and they are worlds apart. One is very red and the other is burnt orange/red orange. The 90* is the only thing I have that's original Chrysler red, I think. Which is more correct? Thanks, Keith

Whos gasket?

Correct! It does come up everywhere, just not in stock.

It's not the same. The one you linked has a depth difference of over 3".

That seems like a really bizarre comment for an oil pick up tube thread? Aren't pristine pro touring cars meant to be driven on the street, kinda like pro street cars(hence the name)? In fact, if they were meant to be driven on the track then they would indeed be...race cars?

I've had one on order from summit already, they can't get one either. If you check again next week that estimated ship date will be a later date.

I checked with them in January, no joy.

If you can find one in stock, I'll give you a finders fee. Here is pic of the pick up for that pan.

I had posted one last month but didn't get any responses. I'll bump that one instead of starting a new one.

I need the pick up for the 360 road race pan # 31595. Oil Pick up part number I need is 18343.

Nope, Estimated shipping May 22 to July 2. They keep pushing the ship dates out as the weeks go on.

No I need the one for the 360 road race pan # 31595

I need help finding or borrowing Milodons pick up tube for their road race pan part# 18343 I ordered from Summit on 12/8/18, and Mancini on 1/22/19 both have been cancelled. I've tried eBay, Amazon, Facebook market place, Marsh, Craigslist and Glendora Dodge to no avail. I've been getting the...

Monday I made a fake battery. It will house an EFI ECU, lithium battery, CDI, Solid State relays, and some busbars. Battery tray mock-up

Lathed up a piece of aluminum rod and then threaded it to fit the factory shifter knob/button.

Still Sunday. Cutting, mocking and fitting ratchet shifter and leaving enough for the factory shifter, if I ever want to run it again. Still need to drill and nutsert, finish cleaning up the metal and mix up some liner to touch up the floor.

Sunday pics. Cutting factory console shifter mount.