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You may need to add some additional foam on top of the circle piece you get from DMT. If you buy their heater box rebuild kit they add a few strips of very compressible foam. It's not a perfect fit so it helps deal with leaks. I just did this a few months ago and had to use a piece of their...

Not to bash on the OP or anyone else in this thread but I've never understood why people have so much trouble with the defrost hoses. First, you want a material that's flexible and not heavy. I can't tell for sure but the pics look like a heavy rubber type hose - not ideal. Second, don't...

Depends what style you like also. You may have a local radiator shop that can rebuild and re-core yours for a decent price

If it's just a pinhole leak i'd clean the area good and use JB weld

Heater core leaked so I had to pull the heater box. I had to do some significant fiberglass repairs as you can see in the pic to where the motor plate mounts to the box. I have the holes drilled in the fiberglass repair and am going to use little screws/nuts to hold the motor to the box. I've...

That is an amazing idea, thank you!

I had to remove my heater box due to a leaking heater core. I forgot the last time I had this box out it was 12 years ago roughly and I did some quick-fixes. I need to spend time doing fiberglass repairs, painting the flappers, and adding new seals. In the meantime I need to drive the car. I...

Thanks, I found a better manual. One hose is 1/2" and one is 5/8". Looks like it's reminded me how to remove the heater box, somewhat simple, easier if the glovebox is removed for access to disconnect the cables and other things. This place sells rebuild kits: Mopar A Body 67-72 BASIC NON AC...

Driving home from running errands the heater core started dripping. 1971 Dart 360 (rebuilt motor recently) and my radiator was re-cored a few years ago. Cooling system in good condition but original heater core. Probably just age caused it to finally fail. I've only removed the heater box out...

Don't put any radiator sealant in there. Check closely for leaks. I've had radiator hose clamps that I could have sworn were on there tight but they did leak, very slightly. Check those clamps. Try loosening and rotating them and re-tightening them. If the leak is still there pull the rad and...

It's not a drain plug, it's an anode rod that can go in place of the drain petcock or other fitting depending on what radiator you have. An anode is something that protects your cooling system from electrolysis damage. Again an anode isn't necessary if running Evan's Coolant or if you change...

Evan's coolant is awesome and perfect for a fresh unused system. Go with that if you can. If you don't want to for whatever reason get Zerex G-05, it's superior to the green stuff and compatible in any system. Adding one of these is cheap insurance but not required if you run Evans or change...

Just FYI in case anyone is wondering, this will solve any corrosion issues, for those of us who wait too long between antifreeze changes :D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GR09S4/?tag=joeychgo-20

So the radiator is 1/4" larger than the water pump?!

What size is the water pump and inlet? Is the water pump a bigger diameter than the bottom port on the radiator?

Oh wait, I'm sorry I miss-read your post. Those part numbers are for the upper port to be on the passenger side. The driver's side upper port should be more common. A stock 73 Dart 318 upper radiator hose might work for you.

Dayco #71281 or whatever it cross references to might work for you. You may have to trim part of it off. And if that doesn't work try Gates #21511

Amazon.com: COOLANT RECOVERY TANK - LARGE: Automotive That's the ugly one I have that works fine. Much larger capacity.

The last test I did was I filled the overflow tank to between the F and E marks. This was after several times of this happening. I drove the car, parked it, checked, and now the water level was at the F line. I drove a distance so I have no idea if any spit out into the engine bay during that...

After filling it, a few times of driving it the coolant level settles down below the empty line. That's the level it settles at when the engine is cold. Doesn't matter if I fill it to the top, half way, full line, eventually it levels out below the empty line after just a few times of driving...

Update on that coolant recovery tank. When I bought it the first thing I thought of was "wow, that's small". It's for a car with a much smaller coolant capacity system. I mounted it anyway because I hated the look of my rigged-up cheap one I got at the autoparts store. It's been a disappointment...

That makes sense now! And as to your comment about Evan's coolant. That's awesome. That stuff seems like a great idea. Someday I will use it.

??? You aren't running a thermostat? That's a great way to ruin your engine. Running your engine under 140 degrees is detrimental

Are you going to use one of these with your aluminum radiator? Amazon.com: Flex-a-lite 32060 Zinc Anode Drain Plug Kit: Automotive

Mine keep spitting fluid out of the top. Anyone else have the same issue? My thoughts are it just might be too small of a tank for the system so it's not forgiving. It seems to level-out near the empty line...

Seems like a fair price. Getting an original radiator re-cored is about the same.

You going to use this in the aluminum radiator? Amazon.com: Flex-a-lite 32060 Zinc Anode Drain Plug Kit: Automotive

cost? Also why don't you paint it black so it looks original?

I have a question on how water circulation works on our Mopars. The car is a 71 Dart non A/C. I am doing a radiator flush. Question--- do I need the heater ON to have warm water circulate through the heater core? I was under the impression since there's no shutoff valve on the heater lines that...

thats what she said