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I understand... I'm trying to correct mis-information from getting passed along and someone falsely believing it... I was replying to pentastar's post that tighter lobe center will make more cylinder pressure with the intake valve closing when they are not related... The OP's question was...

Intake closing is determined by the intake lobe centerline and intake duration... You can bump the intake centerline forward or backward and keep the same lobe center.... The exhaust centerline will follow if the lobe centers are kept constant/equal... You can pick a lobe separation and...

Keep tightening them up and test driving until the valves hit the pistons, then back off a little after you blow up the engine....

LSA is lobe separation angle which is the angle between the intake lobe centerline and exhaust lobe centerline... So if you isolate all other cam properties and just focus on lobe separation, here's what you can reason out: A larger lobe separation angle has the lobe centerlines FARTHER...

She said that too... :)

That's what she said... :eek:

Yeppers...

Here, this will help you... https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ams/how-to-id-a-small-block-engine-block.35/ The last year of the poly 318 was 66... The LA 318 began in 67... https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ams/factory-v-8-engine-and-cam-specs-by-year-1965-1975.362/

That means he's having a beer....

Go ahead and reuse them...

I'm not going to tell you what to do with your engine, it's YOUR engine... That's what I do with mine... And yes, there are very few of the original timing chains left, but if I have an engine with one - it's getting replaced with a double roller ASAP!!! The increase in MPG will pay for...

I use the larger two armed gear puller... Make sure to have a bolt in the threaded hole so you don't damage the threads...

I've heard some people say you can't use a tensioner with a double roller because the chain will chew it up, but then some people say no... How's yours working out???

I disagree... If it's a virgin 273/318 with the facory nylon tooth timing gear and chain, the first thing to do is replace it with a double roller of any kind, preferably a true roller double roller... The stock factory chains are junk, the nylon gets hard and chips off the teeth, making the...

I forgot to post the link... https://www.manciniracing.com/ed2733183403.html

I thought the water pump pulley was the same for a/c and non-a/c, thanks... Then he will need this water pump pulley: https://www.manciniracing.com/mawapua70upw.html https://www.bouchillonperformance.com/inc/sdetail/868/902 https://www.bouchillonperformance.com/inc/sdetail/868/914

Your water pump is fine, that's the correct one for 70 and later... You need the triangluar alternator mounting bracket and single groove alternator pulley (Here's some links below) : Alternator triangle bracket, slotted adjustment bracket, and center pivot bolt for alternator...

You have the correct water pump/fan pulley, but you definitely need the triangular bracket that mounts to the water pump and hold the pivot bolt for the alternator... There is no need for the stack of washers on the lower end water pump hole, the triangular bracket bolts directly on the water...

I like this true roller double roller... I've been using it on my builds for decades and they always hold up well... I rebuild an engine that I had one with 130,000 miles and the chain was still good, I replaced it anyway because I bought another one for only $50 back then...

Go into microsoft paint and resize the originals to 40% and save them to a different name (So you keep the originals)...

More pictures so you can see the belt alignment...

Here's more pics...

You want this bracket and bolt kit... This kit has the proper brackets, bolt, and spacers for the bolt to align the alternator correctly... Here's the proper mounting bolts for the triangular bracket to the water pump and alternator... Then you need a single pulley alternator for...

That's porosity, but it's nothing to worry about, they will work...

There's no better thrill/high/rush than when you build your first engine and it fires up!!! :thumbsup: You still get it after the next ones, but not as good as your first one... That feeling of a successful accomplishment and knowing that you did it yourself... :thumbsup:

That's what she said... Giggity, giggity...

I recommend a shroud for better cooling...

Mancini does not have the correct ones... Look on page 74 or 75 of the Mr. G's fastener catalog: Page 75: I'm not sure what size the bolts are, but if I remember correctly, they have a 7/16" head on them.... I'm not sure what size bolt diameter that goes to, maybe someone else can...

They use what's called a u-nut that is a piece of sheet metal bent in the shape of a U with threads on one side and wraps around the holes in the radiator... Then the bolts screw into that...