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I have read others on here preferring the chrome box too.....just plug and go, no changes to be made to timing or anything? Are the new chrome boxes ok or do they have a high failure rate like the new orange boxes? Thx!

I saw this post while reading up on ignition systems here.......pretty slick, I'll hang onto my old box!

Thanks for the u tube video, love the female computer voice, that could sell anything, LOL! I looked around the net for info on it but did not find that. I thought I read in the FABO thread you posted the link to, that it had an adjustable advance, maybe I'm reading things wrong, pretty much a...

Looking at my 360's factory electronic ignition distributor I can see the bushings are worn and the reluctor has some side to side movement. Is the Accel 59301 a good replacement? Or should I stick with stock? What would the pros and conns be? This Accel unit seems to be a drop in replacement...

In my trade we use uninsulated butt connectors for splicing along with good quality shrink tubing that has the sticky sealant which is activated while heating the tubing. No issues of corrosion or bad connection, even many of our OEM replacement sensors and switches have uninsulated butt...

So I put in the new orange module today, car fired up and idled in the driveway for 1/2hr without quitting, took it for a drive between rain drops.....so far no quitting or dead ignition. Seems like the module was the gremlin...won't trust the car until I get out for a few short rides. Everyone...

Obviously a dead short you had there to take out the fuse link, but the spades in your bulkhead/firewall connector look like mine did, my plug started burning up at the fuselink/battery and at the alternator pin....the female spades in the firewall side open up and get loose. This may not be of...

Thanks for all the info guys, not sure it's the module as you guys have mentioned but I have a new module to try, didn't break the bank so it's worth a try.....all else seems good other than the play at the distributor shaft & reluctor. Certainly could have been my firewall connector but that's...

This is the other diagram I saw here on FABO....it's the only one that specified a resistance reading on the ignition coil......so much good info on this site! Does anyone have a HEI setup running a higher resistance coil than the .32 ohm ? I would like to keep the HEI for roadside emergencies...

Thanks so much 67Dart273 for the tip where to get the service manuals I will check that out. Have no plans of going without ballast....have had local friends tell me otherwise, as for the GM HEI I did just temporary wire it in and used this exact diagram.....but my bad did not just check for...

Now for my questions....sorry for the long story above...just wanted to give you guys a picture of where things are at......is it possible my test with the HEI went sideways because of the higher resistance coil I used.....it was a Petronix oil filled 1.5 ohm....same that has been on this car...

Hi, have not been on site for awhile....poor Valiant has taken the backseat for awhile, just lookin pretty in the garage with electrical gremlins it has a 360 with orange module electronic ignition. Started having quiting issues with no spark, very random.....first thing I checked stopped me...

Alternators should work even if they have been sitting in a box for years on a parts shelf, it was only the old generators that needed polorizing sometimes if disconnected for a long time.Like others said probably volt reg or possibly wiring issue connected to it.

Well ya learn something new everyday, didn't know some tachs used a sending unit. Just curious is the sending unit wired into the ignition or is it a type of rpm sensor??

Hey I looked at a couple of wiring diagrams I've got but unfortunatly the '66 ones I've got don't even show a tach, but this one from a '69 book I've got shows wiring for a Belvedere,Satellite,GTX tach. Wire colors are different though but I'll bet the orange is the backlight on the gauge as it...

Sorry not sure how to help ya with hooking it up but had to post to say congrats, thats a pretty cool find!!! You must have been stoked to come home with that:cheers:

A fellow mechanic at work told me on old chryslers he often saw intermittent voltage problems to ignition coils due to poor power coming off from the ignition switch out through the firewall connector. The auto-electrical shop he worked at used to power up the ignition circuit(balast resistor...

Thanks for the ign lesson, that clears up some questions I've always had on Mopar ignitions.Always lots to learn on this forum:read2:thanks again Grump!

Check the plugs on the back of your instument cluster,loose pins and spread open female plug connections will cause all kinds of grief. My signal indicators in the dash and backlight were doing the same tricks#-o until I got all the cluster connections fixed up.

Probably loose pins and plugs on back of gauge cluster. Pins are on the gauges, female plug (sockets) on dash harness.Check out this thread, see if it makes sense.Gauges working wonky can drive ya NUTS. Good luck. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=32517

Because the temp gauge uses a thermister in the block of the engine and the gauge is reading its changing resistance, any poor connection at the plug and pins in the dash cluster will throw the reading off. I found trying to resolder the pins back in (even if they feel tight they may not be...

The pins on the back of my gauges were all loose and the female sockets in the harness plugs were all spread open badly and needed replacing, nothing really worked too well especially the dash lights. I removed all the pins and soldered wires (color coded to the wiring harness) directly onto the...