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Yup. No reason to complicate 400hp. Save the money for extra tires.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0102-1970-340-high-performance-mill-dyno/ I'm thinking about giving this a shot.

If a piece got thrown up into a cylinder it could mess it up good. If it gets stuck somehow on the rotating assembly it will throw it out of balance. I think removing the pan was a good plan.

Sometimes I will run a jumper cable from the negative post to a good ground on the block. If cranking improves it can mean the cable has a problem. Assuming the connection at the negative post is clean and tight. Somewhere there is some resistance. The starter may even be a lot hotter than it...

After you have cranked it over for bit, feel around and see if maybe you have a hot cable. Use care, you may find a really hot spot.

There is a lot more to this, including the extra power it takes to maintain high, and for the most part, un-needed pressures. I would concur with this. If memory serves me right, a top fuel car goes thru the traps with no pressure, still pumping tons of fuel to keep it cool.

Unless we are talking about very insignificant amounts of oil, a rise of oil in the radiator should correspond to a drop on the dipstick.

Wouldn't everyone's share be $0.25?

They don't even seem to be the same forgings.

I clicked just to see what was going on too. I have no clue. Just take all the bolts out, jack it up and take a peek. Something that drastic should be obvious.

Take a sample of your two year old oil and send it to a lab. I bet it comes back just fine, unless there is something drastically wrong with your engine.

What's the difference? 99% of it just sits in the bottom anyway. If you don't start it, you can drain almost every drop after sitting five months. Probably not in too bad of shape anyway after just a few hundred miles. Age probably more of a factor.

Let me throw in another easy check. Bent distributor shaft.

I hope the mama boys you are talking about don't have too much money. If you run up against a Wankel turning 15,000 your gonna need a lot more than a mild 360 unless it's mounted on two wheels. More like a built Hellcat or ZO6.

Maybe reading the plugs will help you identify which cylinders are affected. Then you will know where to look for any damage to the gaskets or head.

You got that right. The answer to a very similar question in high school took me 18 pages,

Correct and cams get ground weird, and pushrods can bend and heads may not be flat...

Which is why you will have to measure everything if you are trying to figure clearance. Push rod length will matter also, as it will change the ratio. In Marcos example the .0225 loss would be true with a 1.5 rocker at any cam lift if the pushrod loses .015. The rocker arm will always be 1.5.

1.65 will give you more lift than 1.6. You decide how much lift you want and assemble accordingly. You start to lose when all the parts begin to wear out.

Freshen up is sort of vague. I have found that rings tend to seat in about five or ten seconds. What color is all this smoke and how much.

In the old days we would put a piece of cigarette paper behind the bearing and it would take up the excess clearance. Not really suggesting you do this to 408, just saying it would work for a while. Not sure why you hope it is a head gasket. You may get off far easier if you just have to turn a...

I think you have a problem with the oil pressure relief valve. Stuck shut would be my guess. Hook up a gauge to it you can read psi from.

If you see a tanker dumping 5000 gallons of fuel into the station tanks through a four inch line, go elsewhere. You'll be glad you did. The only way to know is ask them when they last had a fuel dump. Someone might know. The pumps are supposed to have filters but who knows.

Not sure, but if you put an 800 cfm Edelbrock on it you could possibly see an extra 30hp.

So was it any easier to discern where the noise originates from without all the exhaust racket? If it is in the back there are not many options. Flywheel rubbing on something maybe. If it is inside the block I guess you could go for it and use the hope for the best method. Most any idea I...

If you were to rev it up and shut it down at a higher rpm would it continue to make the sound until the engine ramped down? That is enough noise that you should easily be able to find it with a stethoscope.

Almost sounds like a couple keys jangling together. If there is nothing under the dash rattling around, and the pipes aren't banging around against the hangers or something then I would spray a little water on the belts and pulleys and such. If that doesn't quiet it down then it would be time...

If it's a stick set the parking brake or have someone hold the brake pedal down while in gear.

Blow some air through the plug hole and see what flies out the exhaust pipe, or the carb.

Sometimes reading the plugs can give you a handle on what is and is not happening internally.