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The rear stick on bumper step off my old 2004 Subaru Forester is a perfect fit, contour and all. I used to throw it on there when I parked it outside.

Brush on Eastwood rust encapsulator plus, then spray satin Rustoleum paint and primer in one. Done it for years with no issues. Eastwood stuff goes a long way, and can be applied over paint, bare metal, and rust.

Did your clips match the 68 diagram? My 67 has it as well. It has 1 repaint on the exterior, done in the late 80s early 90s from what I'm told. Not sure if sourcing 68 front/rear window trim was a thing then. Dare I suggest since it was a late May 67 build it came like that? I bought new 68...

The picture of the part is wrong half the time as well.

Old school, went to my local body supply store and bought over the counter.

I believe these are the clips and nuts, have to bend the arm out to fit the trim size. Iirc, I used these on my top trim, but I do not recall the ends being different.

I had to pull the windows on my 62 to change out the clips, rusted out or not. The 67 Barracuda clips can be removed with the windows in?

I used the Eastwood stuff. It was the only one, that I could find, that stated it can be sprayed or brushed on rust and bare metal. For some reason many state not for use on bare metal, at least at the time I was researching and reading the material.

Expect the worst, especially with po repairs. Were your seams visible before you started, were the leaded seams showing and just painted over? Shocking is replacing everything from the windshield to the trunk floor.

Searched the interweb and no good clear pics of this area, in fact most appear to have no seam whatsoever. I doubt the factory completely filled the seam, but cannot confirm. Wish I could order the Rear Body Upper Panel in post #8, because not only did AMD discontinue the notchback rear deck...

Thank you for the pic. I imagine even after the lead the seam is still visible. Betting they just put bondo over a rusting seam making it much worse, although I don't get why the through hole is so high up. Anyone have a fastback they can snap some pics of the rear panel/seam? Bueller...

I don't see a rear deck panel available from AMD. So I remembered I have a few pages from an old parts book, and it has some exploded views. Quarter Panel section, numbered exploded view corresponds to #s listed, got it. Rear Body section, 1 part shown, what's the Panel, Lower (Below Deck...

So, the center panel sits on top of the qt, and the qt is offset to accept it. Can clearly see in first pic on the bottom edge of trunk gutter, arrow on left is seam, arrow on right is where offset begins. Inside in same area, the qt takes a 90 degree turn towards the outside, so the seam on...

The AMD pics only show the quarter from the side. I've replaced the entire floor, firewall, cowl, windshield, etc, on my 62 Dart. Also r&r'd the rear window on that, which had a separate center section on the gasket, once removed the gasket folds over and the window comes out easy peasy. No...

Yeah, makes sense to replace gasket. My guess is the seam is near the hole. Anyone have a pic of where the seams are at?

67 fastback, some po installed 68 stainless trim and 'fixed' the rear panel below the glass. Water will sit at bottom of rear glass and not leak into cabin. When raining, whether driving or stopped, minimal water gets in trunk on both sides. Trunk is completely solid, not even surface rust...

I know Goo-Gone, automotive type only, removes undercoat with ease. Maybe it could work on this? Spray on, walk away, come back in 24 hrs, scrape off.

This sounds easier than a spotweld cutter, which I've used, also used an air grinder with just a regular cut off on it. What type of ball? Iirc, there are the stone type and metal ones as well.

Used it many times, excellent stuff. Made my directional arm completely covered in rust shine like new. Latest, Hurst, not paint, wouldn't come off with paint remover, wire wheel would not make a dent. I even took a razor blade to it. I really thought it was paint at first.

Quick-Glo

My 67 driver side mirror is roughly in the middle of the vent window. I had a 71 Dart and it was behind the vent window. Sure would like to see that side of the car sometimes. Personally, I can't justify the coin for a new mirror, as it would be the only good chrome on my car, ha! Maybe a backup...

A friend has one on his 67, there when he got it, placed in same spot as driver's side, impossible to see from the driver's seat. I think it would have to be on the fender to be useful. Just an fyi. Was that even an option?

Good news. I guess it's also good that the hinges are interchangeable, so no chance of the wrong spring. Thank you all!

I think it's clear that my spring is upside down. It's more squared off on the top, and longer. Bottom is more round and shorter. How much tension is this thing under? Obviously I'll have to pull it off, just concerned about flipping it off then on.

I stuck my finger in there and it appears there isn't much of the spring sticking up into the hinge at the bottom. So if I did manage to move it down it would pop out the bottom. I don't recall the door not staying open before, but sometimes you're so focused on other issues your brain...

It appears the driver hinge is the same as the passenger, just flipped over. Problem is, not enough of the S spring is making contact with the 2 rollers so the door won't stay open. I've tried to get the S spring to slide down, pry bar, hammer, persuasion, etc. What's the trick in lowering...

I've been looking for a template for years, or someone with original fenders off the car that could make one. I don't have an antenna, so using that as a reference is out. Measurements are difficult to follow, unless emblems are off and measuring holes. My guess is something like a sewing tape...

My 67 had the 68 window trim when I bought it. Based on what I know about the car, must have been done long ago. Not sure where the clips are or if possible to locate with trim on.

If I remember correctly, few made the door window seal between the front and rear glass on a hardtop. That could have changed though.

What's the mod to make the trunk lid act like the door? I haven't locked my keys in the trunk (yet) but I've heard it's no fun. My trunk lid clicks closed extremely easy, and the fastback interior panel locks from the trunk side, so I'm always careful, but stuff happens.