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The light is set a 5800 seams to have gotten my best times shifting around there. Unfortunately I only have 2 other 600 carbs on hand. Only have one more race I'm going to attend this year. This winter unless I fall into some money I'll degree the cam and thinking about milling the heads .060...

I appreciate the honest post here! I was thinking I was doing pretty good last weekend Best I've ran so far but then I'm seeing there is deffinately more to be had lol. But to answer your questions and I think a big problem is the converter. Bought it used and was supposed to be 3500 but not...

Ok let me re phrase. Stock internals (Pistons, crank, ect) and factory iron heads. Stock long block. Can be bored but if you slap in some kieth black Pistons with a different compression height it doesn't count. Did that clear it up? Mine is a 1980 reringed 360 stock long block. Stock cast...

heres one for the budget racers like me. What's the fastest you have gone with a stock piston stock headed? Post what you have done to your combination and how fast it went. Mine stock size 360 reringed stock head stock intake 4.10s. Ran a 14.78 last weekend at 93 mph

1/8 mph is 75 at the stripe 1/4 was 90. I shift at 5500 and shifting from 2nd to third I felt her slow down right around 5000 so I started shifting her a little quicker going into 3rd

I just put her together back in May. Ran a couple 1/8 mile passes at 1100 ft. Ran 9.28 as the fastest. Did nothing but change plugs and wires and ran the 1/4 yesterday

Altitude is 2700 at the track yesterday the corrected alt was over 7000 feet and 135 track temp

Has open headers on it. Weight loss is damn near done with not much left to lose besides fiberglass. Fuel system is a carter electric pump through half inch fuel line to a regulator set at 6.5 lbs or so. Comp says the cam works with a stock converter so I figured 2000 should be alright with it...

1980 360 with a reringed bottom end. Stock heads with no work done to them. Stock dual plane intake. Comp 275deh camshaft. Converter only stalls to 2000 before it starts pushing through the brakes. 600 cfm Holley vac secondary. Stock mopar ignition. And 4.10 gears with 29 x 10.5W slicks. Ran a...

Here is my contribution just got her running last weekend.

Update *** she works no leaks. Spent 45 dollars in brass compression fittings to pipe thread. 7.50 average between 6 fittings. Easier than flaring tubing to fit the an or buying an fittings and then the adapters from tube to an that use the same compression fittings anyway

I did have to use the poor man battery cable lol. I finished my positive side with the 1/0 and had enough left over to put in a decent ground system. Only used one ground wore from the cab to my grounding lug on he frame. But I got it running and everything seems to work great no issues. My...

That's a good point looks like about 6 12 ga to meet the same load carrying capacity of 1/0. 4 wires will meet 3 ga

I am working on my electrical system on my drag racer and was curious with the battery cables. 1/0 battery cable measures 0.32" in diameter. 12 ga measures .08" in diameter. If you wrap 4 12 ga wires together in the same ring terminal connector you have the same diameter as 1/0. Whats the...

Don't have a link but I'm talking about the ones that you can get from Napa heavy duty. Trucks use them with air lines and fuel lines

Alright great to know. I am probably only gonna run an from the cell and the rest will be compression fittings and then regulator to carb will be an. That'll save a lot of money compared to buying new an fittings for every connection at fuel pump filter regulator ect.

That would be sweet looking but I already have the natural aluminum tube and only a couple an fittings and on a budget lol

I'm curious. I work at a heavy duty truck dealership and we use the plastic fuel/air lines and compression fittings all the time. Now I'm trying to plumb in my drag race fuel system with 1/2 aluminum tubing for fuel line. Is there any reason I couldn't use brass 1/2 compression fittings with the...

Section 6:2 in the general rules second sentence." The drivers seat must be supported on the bottom and back by the frame or crossmember. Except as noted in sfi specs, seats must be bolted with four bolts on bottom and one in the rear into crossbar; all bolts must go into frame or cross braces...

Yes I am shooting for 12s with this budget just to get it rolling probably 13s. What about the seat mounts not going into a crossmember or frame? Do just big fender washers under the sheet metal pass tech?

I have a question on my drag race build. It's not an a body but it's a 78 dodge d100 step side. I have mounted my plastic racing seat where I want it but the problem is the mounts don't line up with the crossmember on the bottom side of the cab. Being it is a pick up I cannot go to the frame and...

Thanks furyus2 that's is my view on it

I'll see if I can get some good pictures of the welds I'm questioning this weekend if I get a chance to work on it. Then you guys could give me some pointers and ideas. Right now I'm thinking about grinding it down as far as I can get and try again on one weld that I forgot to turn the gas on...

Well I am stitch welding the floor back in and to the frame connector, not too worried there. I put a 3 x 3 plate on the torsion bar cross member first and started welding it there and forgot to turn on the gas. So what should I do there now? I am not real confident mostly due to lack of exp...

Well I am not a welder just to clarify. I have been trying to do the welding on my dart myself. (at least I am giving her a go). I cut out my rusty drivers side floor pan and welded in a new one, not the best job but once again at least I tried. After the floor pan I decided to install my...

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Yep plan on .032 aluminum for the rear fire wall ok thanks for the input I'll just order another fitting for the return and install it in the fuel cell

It has a male JIC fitting in it I believe it is -8

Oh ok I guess I just misunderstood how a fuel pressure regulator with return works. Sorry for the "slow" moment there. But yes that is what I am saying about my fuel cell. It has only 2 fittings on it, on top. One with a check ball and the other with the stand pipe. But I guess how do...

I am thinking about mounting my fuel cell in my car tomorrow and was just looking over the rules real quick and got to thinking. My fuel cell is a 12 gallon unknown brand. It does not have a sump just has two fittings on top one with a standpipe going to the rear of the cell, the other having...