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That will work just fine. Will be plenty bright at night.

see the link to my post that CDF244 linked here in this thread. This is the simplest way to add the electric pump setup to a 2 speed manual pump washer system. I did 1 for me, and one for somebody else on FABO.

Keep it 2 speed and wire in electric pump to a momentary contact switch mounted in the old foot operated manual pump housing. I modded mine, and one for somebody else.

2 speed switch does push in slightly but is not an electric washer switch. If you look at how it plugs into the harness if theres a brown wire not plugging into it, or a wire cavity in the plug with no wire in it where the switch plugs in then you will understand what I am talking about. That is...

Post a few pix. I love checking out homemade / one off custom tools.

Oh I hear you. I have made a grounding strap for the die cast cluster housings on my junk that bolt to the steering column mounting bolts. Otherwise the only grounds the cluster gets are from its mounting screws. Time and age that becomes a problem.

The aftermarket fuel gage is likely spliced in to the factory fuel tank sender wire somewhere under the dash, and the wire going up to the cluster is either cut, or was tapped into.

I love your setup with the solid state IVR

I agree 100% on making sure its all hooked up right and has proper grounds first. Back in the late 1980s I had a 68 charger who's gages had a mind of their own. I changed out the circuit board with the IVR on it and problem went away. I was just an 18 year old kid back then. This forum wasnt...

Yes my IVR is a homemade deal and not a product by RTS. With a little basic electronics knowledge and soldering prowess you too can make your own Yes the schematic shows 2 grounding points on my IVR schematic one ground point is on the mounting/heatsink tab, the other is one of the pins on the...

Those vibrating point IVRs are 50 years old. They fail open and closed. Upgrade to better solid state. Nice electronics project that's about $10 Just because mopar designed it, doesn't mean it was all designed great. That ammeter setup isnt that great. Better off bypassing that firehazard...

Yes, I just attach the black IVR wire to the circuit board grounding screw. They must have used a scrap gage. That black wire inside the gage is the 12V feeding the points IVR. You can just bend the points on the wire wrapped bi metal spring out of the way, but I clipped the black wire and...

You can also just clip and remove the black wire, and clip the metal spring with the contactor point and remove it, then leave the rest. You want the gage pointer to remain functional.

Any questions, just ask. I bypassed the ammeter wiring by using a small bolt, and nut and heavy duty shrink wrap, and attaching both ammeter leads together, and using shrink tubing to cover them up. Then using the ammeter face, and needle, I used the guts from a Sun 2" volt gage and converted...

I just checked. That 67 barracuda build was truncated down a bit. No pix. If I have time today I will scare em up, and tell you how I did this. Pretty easy actually. You might as well mod your amp gage to volts while you are there.

I may have covered it in my stalled out build thread titled 67/68/69 Cuda dilemma It may be also be in my very very stalled out build thread titled 1967 Plymouth Barracuda notchback More than likely the whole process is detailed somewhere in the 1967 barracuda notchback , including how to...

You said when you turn it off it runs on low and wont shut off. The low setting in the switch when you turn to off electrically connects to the park contacts. The motor continues to run till the park contacts in the motor opens then it shuts off. So yes, something is broken causing the parking...

It's because inside the motor itself theres a set of park contacts with a plastic ramp or eccentric with a plastic peg. When you flip the dash switch to off, the internal contacts in the dash switch move to the park contacts in the switch. This let's the wiper motor continue to rotate until the...

If you run the negative volt meter mount stud grounded to the metal cluster housing then you only have to run 1 wire for the 12V feed. Make sure your 12v feed stud is insulated so it doesnt ground out. I'm not well versed in the 66 plymouth cluster. Does it have a plug in IVR on the circuit...

Nice charger, but It still needs a screaming V8

The detail on the slanty is really nice, but you know that duster is really screaming for a proper V8.

Probably the life of the car, did you have a COMA inducing thread on cleaning up the junkyard coil you got.

I don't have any templates for the slant 6 cable.

I will try to not drool on my pillow too much as I fall asleep reading your new bedtime story :poke:

Your not going to have a make people go to sleep thread on dual note horns are you?

Only 1. Turned out fine, not sure I'd do it again.

Prestolite. Likely a V speed

Wow, it's not that hard. Get a meter and probe the wires. Theres a fat red one from the bulkhead to the battery, and a fat black one coming from the alternator to the bulkhead. Those go inside to the ammeter. Those are the ones they want you to bypass around the bulkhead connector and run thru...

I am considering running off more of these battery cable kits. First off, thank you to those of you that have purchased these from me in the past. I will be gaging interest before rounding up the materials to make 7 more kits for purchase. These are available for 67-72 small block V8 A body. I...

Tech tip, on the negative post of that volt gage, use stacked metal washers, or a metal spacer for the gage height, then clean the face of the hole in the gage housing to bare metal and bolt it in. Then you only have to run 1 wire for the + side. The negative is case ground to the cluster...