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Brake switch!!

I agree with you slantsixdan.....I melted the hell out of some e-bay plastics housing's few years ago.

do a h-4 conversion with the new style plastic bulb housing. looks good and super bright!

if you are getting spark to the dist. then try the cap, rotor and wires first.

run it with a different switch like a fused toggle to make sure it's not the MSD, then figure out what's wrong with your ignition switch/wiring. For some reason when your switch goes to ignition 2, it drops out your ignition 1 power

I would say start by jumping the ignition wire from the MSD to constant hot with a inline fuse....just to make sure you have a good hot...then check for spark.

Just curious, what convertor are you running?? I have a 3400 stall but it is more like 3000 stall speed off the rev. I have a 3000 set for burn/launch also.

what 2-step do you have?? Should only be two wires. A ground and a hot...activate the 2 step however you want. Like said, with a trans brake or just a momentary switch or a toggle. When you throw hot to the 2-step you engage you low limit rpm. I use a 8672 for top end and a 3000 chip for...

Easy....replace the alt. also. If you want it to act like a new car with electronic ignition you have to replace the old technology.

Just put a MSD on it and get some serious spark!!

Dang....I've had good luck with mine. Mine is pushing 2 years old now. Got another last summer for my 383 Duster and It's doing good too. Got a shut-off switch on the Duster and it sits for weeks at a time and starts just fine.

I got a little crazy with mine......1000 cranking amp Optima red-top. Dropped about 120.00 for it but it gets the job done. Bout a 11.5 to 1 408 and it spins it over real quick

I have used them both as well....just wondered if one was better than the other. I prefer to keep all my **** matching, that's the only real reason I stick with the MSD stuff. I have a Accell on my 383 Duster but on the track haven't seen any difference at all between the two.

I don't know what is, or is not made here anymore!! I know that a lot of stuff is "assembled" here. About a month ago I took my 6-al apart to fix a wire I pulled out, on the circuit board there was a gold made in Mexico sticker on it. I pulled the board out and on the top side of it on a...

I've always used the Msd Blaster with my 6al. Just wondering if anybody has used the Super coil or had any luck with them. I only ask because I scored a few new Super coils on a trade deal and wonder if I should just craigslist them or are they worth keeping??

go with a MSD. better for your engine and way more reliable!!

the ballast works with the stock ecu, which needs the ballast. The MSD controlls the ignition now and no, you do not need it.

Have you checked to make sure you don't have a bad coil?? And also the ignition box?? If ya have any spare stuff laying around try swapping them out one at a time to eliminate bad parts before you dig into the wiring. That's where I would start before I spent any time or money on it

yes, but but it sounds like your problem is in the switch. The switch tells that relay to turn the starter over. If the engine turns it's not the starter relay. Start with the switch. Make sure you have igniiton 1 and 2

I done the H-4 conversion on my 69 Cuda. You can get them from Jegs and Summit I think. I scored a set from Monster Mopar last year and they work great, plus you can get the sweet blue bulbs. I run mine off a relay, they draw some major voltage but work and look great

go with the MSD, much better!

I have a stock starter off a Dakota, same thing I think. I bought mine from a salvage yard and it's still going strong after 2 years. All parts go bad after a while. I say just re-build it and slap it back on.

can't go wrong with Champion RN14YC, good stock plug

I think it's pretty normal. I've been using MSD for years now, but seem like the ballast used to stay hot.

I get mine from the local Napa

rumblefish, I think your right. I think that is a wiper delay box. Did you just lose dash lights? see of your taillights still work also. sounds like a simple fuse to me

I'm guessing you checked the distributor connector to? pull the cap, turn key make sure rotor is spinning? Dont know if that helps, but that's were I would start, then just get out the test light and start checking for hot were hot should be. Making spark is pretty easy.

this one is to easy, over charging-bad voltage regulator any thing over 12 means the alt. is working, it's the regulator job to keep it betwee 12 and 14, that's where I feel safe

yep, that's what a condensor does

I have used one off a 1993 Dakota 3.9, Works just like stock