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NO offense but I've installed more than a couple of them from Cass. One is road raced severely and has been under the car for 12 years now. He regularly exceeds 150 in a 4K lbs E body. NO vibrations from that diff. Maybe it's a tolerance stack deal and I've been lucky. But I've not had one...

Yeah - that should be easy to locate... Non-transmission rated rubber hose is huge mistake for anything but spot repair to get home. Steel lines can rust through and be good one second and burst the next. Pump seals can dump a lot in a very short time too but normally there's a huge smoke cloud too.

Yeah, I was going to reply but honestly it was handled...lol. Thanks blu!

A customer's Cuda weighs 4100lbs and he road races it. It's been past 150 on the highway, and on Watkin's Glen. Car has huge Baer brakes, low aspect ratio wide sticky tires, etc. After 10 years of abuse, the gears gave up, but the Green bearings have never been an issue. I'd like to have some...

Yeah - as above. You need the right lever for that shifter. Or do what I've done and modify your original lever to move the right amount for each motion of the shifter.

Depends on your tastes. I want the engine's cruise rpm at 55mph to be at or above the stall speed of the convertor if it's a street car. With OD and a 2400rpm stall you'll need more gear I think. If it were me I'd consider dropping the stall speed. IMO you don't need that much with a 360 in an...

Blew one with a 225, blew another one with a 360. They simply were never designed to, and cannot deal with handling any real power. If the tires stick, and there's some real power applied, they'll break.

I won't use a welded diff on asphalt. Won't run a spool either. If you want to, go for it.

I've done swaps for myself on A, E, and C bodies. Love a manual transmission especially with a moderate power level I'm going to drive a lot. I'm less enthusiastic when power levels go up or drag racing is in the picture because shifting becomes a chore and depending on the clutch setup my knee...

The case may be bowed, but if the ends are welded on properly it won't matter. It should be checked with the right fixture, or put it together and run it. As long as the axles go in and out easy, it's probably fine.

Look good to me. Time to break them in and run it.

If the chuck was just a used open deal, there's nothign wrong with the pinion - right up until you take it out of the case. Then you are into the "rebnuild it all" deal. I would re-do the carrier a few times first and see how it goes. I've done what you're doing many times - you don't cause...

Do yourself a favor and take the other trans apart somewhere away from the one you want. There are very subtle differences in some parts that will not interchange without their associated matching parts. Also - you have to take EVERYTHING as far apart as you can. Because anywhere that was...

If they are teflon vs iron you should still be fine. Personally I like the iron sealing rings more but teflon is pretty common and in some circles considered an upgrade.

You have to make sure the ring gear is sitting flat, the caps went on correctly, and the carrier bearings are preloaded correctly. the left cap gets torqued first, and I like to leave the backlash loose, then use the LH adjuster to bring the carrier in to spec. Then tighten the RH cap adjuster...

I hear you, but I kinda gave up on trying to describe my techniques. It's not worth the inevitable arguements that come along with putting it on a public forum. Suffice to say go slow, use a lot of lube, and think about things before you do them. The tool I use to rebuild the high gear clutch...

I think you're all set for parts now, but I've used Bulkpart.com or John Cope (Cope Racing Transmissions) for my transmission stuff for years now. Some newbie hints - 5 cans of carb clean won't do it. Get a couple gallons of laquer thinner and a couple deep pans. One pan for "first cleaning"...

There has to be an axle adjuster on one side for things to work right with factory type bearings. It should be on the right side but as was said "could" be on either as long as it's there. You may have issues with how the bearings were pressed on. The assembly should be the flange, then bearing...

Looking at the trans - the easiest way to se if it has a skift kit is remove the valve body bolts. If there is a spring under the rounded section (that's the 2nd gear accumulator) it's probably stock. The various kits acheive results in different ways, but pretty much all of them pull the...

I agree with Cracked - if you haven't had it tuned by someone that knows Mopars I'd do that, and then reappraise the gearing. It's a bit less money to stick a limited slip diff in the 3.23s than to build a decent 3.55 or 3.91 set.

Combination of port size and stroke helps determine the rpm of peak power, and flattens the curve. The 408 has 6% more stroke than the 440. A higher stall will certainly make the car get moving quicker, but you're just slipping past usable power and certainly driveability which in a street car...

That cam, in a 408", is basically a stocker. Peak torque, which will be basically flat just above idle, will be around 3K. I would go 3.54s in the Dana and get a tight convertor - something in the 2500 range. No need for more if this is a street car. Or change the camshaft to something...

A customer of mine has a very heavy E body he road races. Car will run 145+ on the track, 550hp stroked B wedge. It runs the 8 3/4 with Green bearings, good axles, and a Tru Trac. He abuses that car much more than anything a street car guy will do and they've been in there for 10 years. Nothing...

I rarely install anything higher than 22-2500 on a car you have to drive a lot. You can pay more for something that stalls low, but flashes higher, but it doesn't sound like you want or need that. So I'd stay lower. My rule of thumb is you want to have the engine above the flash stall (always...

Honestly, as long as it's not the 5.0, I'd leave it alone. 2.9 to 3.8 isn't much of a change given the work to change it.

I always do, and record the backlash at four places around the ring gear.

How many quarts of the new ATF went in? Was the unit and convertor dry when you started it? If it were me, aside from taking a couple pressure readings, I'd drain it, drain the convertor, and stick some Type F fluid in it. Flaring on the upshift is not a sign everything is toast. Especially...

No gears should be noisey if they are set up properly. If someone tells you they all are noisey, yours will be, and that's not done well enough to be quiet. Motive makes a decent product. As do Richmond, Yukon, and Strange/US Gear.

I will second the oil hole at the top. It feeds the slip yoke through that top hole, the bottom hole gives any trapped between the yoke and the rear seal a path back to the trans case.

I'm not aware of any that are not part of a convertor company. You might give one of the custom convertor companies a call to see if they can test yours for a fee.