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Honestly, in terms of OP, the 2.5 system is more than adequate for you needs, and cheaper, and lighter. In terms of science... I think the reason you don;t see huge dyno results overall is simple: Every package is unique, and by package, I mean the chassis, engine, noise level acceptance, etc...

I know mandrel flows better. But the ready made stuff frankly isnt bolt on in many cases. Plus, the weith offsets some gain especially witha smaller engine. So a back to back, non magazine real world test would be cool. Have compression bent 3, run it, cut off at track and bolt in whats...

You won't see a bonus from 3" pipe until you are close to 500hp. With the cam choice and heads, I don't see you getting near it. Closer to 400 with big torque, but it will be done at 5Krpm. The smaller tubes are fine, and you dont need 3". You will not feel a difference between the two sizes. I...

I think there are some shorty designs available. Those might do the trick.. Ok, I went and looked..I cant find any except for truck designs...I swear I've heard of guys running them..anyone have any ideas?

Yeah..you foreigners. I cant imagine how hard it is to find parts over there.

In racing, cops dont get called by people on cell phones complaining your car is too loud.. In racing, you dont necessarly need to hear things like sirens of that cop car, firetrucks/ambulences, the stereo, anyone in the car. The full boogie treatment would be 3", with an X pipe and low...

400 cubic inches (392 IIRC) at 400hp will do fine with 2.5" pipe. If you're looking for a real 500-550, you'll be moving more air, and will need 3" pipes. 2.5 will run decent, but you will be leaving some power on the table with a desired 550hp and 2.5" pipes. On a side note, you'll be spending...

Personally, I would replace the maifold before I cut the headpipe if you are looking to "do it right" from a restoration point of view. You should have no trouble getting close to the same money from a guy who isnt restoring a car, just wants the hi po manifolds. The way to get it to fit now...

2.5 is fine

Mine (for my '71) were $275 with a plugged heat riser. You should be able to locate them for 3-350 easy. over 400 better be perfect, like no rust, everything working, and the right date codes. Otherwise they arent worth that much IMO.

Yup..all headers made of std steel will rust. Whether from outside, or inside..There is no way to fully coat the insides of all the tubes reliably that I know of..SO, any marks on the outside, or thin spots in the coating, will rust. The best defense is a temperature controlled garage, and...

Id heat it and clearance it.

The ceramic coating will drastically slow down the corrosion, but wont stop it. If the car isnt driven daily, and/or left where condensation can develop from temperature changes (especially the lower sections of pipe, not tucked into the engine bay), they will rust thru the coating. Uncoated...

If you have std duals now, you should spray the headpipes (the ones running from the header collectors to the mufflers..) with spray paint..std silver or white..not high temp. Then, drive the car a little. Where the paint is burnt off, is where the X should be placed. (this is also true for H...

Like was said..The exh isnt really the wall you'll hit..It's valve springs/lifters/carb. If those are all good enough to support it, the exh will too. My guess is, witht he manifolds, it wont make much power up there, but it should get there. I set my chips at about 300rpm higher than my trap...

Cool. As they say..If it aint a problem, dont make it one...lol. I think it needs some turbos too...lol.

While I like the concept, I dont think it's the real fix. Witht the work for a custom K frame, I'd think a better way could be fabricated to get it out the bottom. Even maybe some sort of Y pipe if the driver's side is impossible. What I seefrom the pic is on the driver's side, all the vital...

I stuck a 383 in a '72 dart a while ago. Before computers, internet, etc...lol. The way I did it was to angle mill and grind the LH 2bbl log manifold to clear the steering. There are 440 and 383 factory manifolds for this, but very rare, and very pricey. There is info on bigblockdart.com (IIRC)...

Plan for the future..use 2.5" pipe. the only issue may be the flange on the driver's side manifold..getting a 2 1/2 " pipe to the 1 7/8 hole can be a pain..so your exh guy may go smaller right at the manifold, then go to larger pipe. If you are running headers in teh future, this is no big...

In most cases, the flanges are warped due to us overtightening, so they dont leak..I always use the Mr Gakset Ultraseals, and I use flat file to remove any high spots..Do not use any silicone on the mating surfaces, only on the threads of the bolts, and tighten for the center two out. I also...

you have a 50/50 shot of them being fine. For the money, I'd pop on a cheap set of logs to break it in backpressure wont hurt anything..With any coating like that, if you start it with them, run until warm, then shut off ant let cool of..do that cycle a few times before you go and whip up on...

I have run and installed Hooker, Hedman, Casler, and Flow Tech..The easiest was the Caslers(for big block..) You issues with Hedman while exasperating, are not exactly unusual when installing a part not designed by the factory. (MP parts are just reboxes, and are overpriced, and just as bad.) I...

:cry: :cry: :cry:

Nope, they'd be an excellent match for a built 273. And if you find 2 sets, I could use one too..lol