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Thanks for the explanation. So basically, if a hotter spark isn't needed, there's really no benefit? Is that safe to say?

What's the benefit of a hotter spark? Does it result in more horsepower?

I've switched over a few mopars to a 4-pin HEI module from chrysler ECUs when the ECU gave up. They all seem to have started faster and idle cleaner. Who knows, maybe it was just a placebo effect. Lots of ways to skin a cat with this one. As Rob used to say - pick your parts, pay your money...

With all the shoddy electrical parts out there, are there any 4-pin hei modules that are more reliable than others?

Interesting. I wonder if those are the same Kioto lamps that sell for much more. @slantsixdan - what do you think about these lamps?

It's not and neither were many of the other replies.

Great info. Thank you for taking the time. I appreciate it.

Thanks guys. It's just not worth the upgrade to H4's for this particular car, but I'll eventually go with those for my '68 one of these days.

I realize slantsixdan is the expert, but I definitely welcome other opinions as well. What do you guys use?

Are there any sealed beam headlights on the market that are worth a ****? I know the GE nighthawks were decent until they outsourced to China, but are there any others currently in production worth buying?

Of course! Not sure what I was thinking.

How do the early ones differ? I figured they were all the same.

If all you want is a spare, take it off and keep it in the trunk. It takes, what 2 minutes to swap out?

I decided to go ahead and replace the whole cables with stuff from Batterycablesusa. I up-sized the starter relay and body ground leads to 6 awg to account for planned future electrical upgrades.

Thanks for the resources guys! I've got a good idea on which direction to go now. I appreciate it.

If you had to bang Rosie to have the opportunity to bang a prime Cindy, would you?

Thank you sir. I appreciate it! Have you ever had any luck adding an auxiliary lead like the factory positive cables? Would you just get the next size up in that case and twist the two together before soldering? By the way, that last line in your reply was classic. Thanks for the laugh. :rofl:

Thanks guys! Lots of great ideas here. If you intend to add a smaller conductor for say the starter relay, or an added radiator core support ground. Do you guys just use the next size lug up ? Or is there a rule of thumb to add say a 8 awg cable to a 2 ga battery terminal? The only copper lugs...

For those of you who make your own battery cables, what ends do you use to terminate the cable on the battery end and connect it to the battery? I'm trying to find a clean, reliable battery lug end for some cables I'm making and looking for some ideas. Thanks guys.

I agree - I didn't like those either. That's why I picked up the proper connectors from a Chevy at the junk yard. Much cleaner install in my opinion, but in reality, you can't see it (at least on a small block) once it's installed. I know it's "right" though.

If you still need one, I found this in my electrical box. I'm happy to toss it in the mail free of charge if you can use it. It's the longer one and mates perfectly to an electronic distributor pickup. Wire gauge is pretty small though.

Seems pretty straight forward. Only has to be within the reach of the driver and labeled. https://www.imca.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/2023-Hobby-Stock-Rules.pdf

Who's the sanctioning body?

Just curious - what program did you use to make that wiring diagram?

I'd add up the amp draw of all of your circuits to help determine the output you'll need out of an alternator. I'm a fan of the denso style alternators. Mancini sells some pretty trick mounting bracket kits for them too. Here's to 90 amp unit on my '66.

Does the battery have juice?

You mean it was faster even with all the weight from those extra battery cables?? :rofl:

Do you even read what you type? Moving the weight of the battery to the rear is insignificant, but the extra 5 or so lbs of battery cable is??? :realcrazy:

They have them on ebay for around $20.

I have a great open barrel crimp tool for the single 12ga terminals. It'll turn out great.