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Not all of the holes in the plug are filled with wires. Only the ones that align with pins on the board. It can be confusing because the pinout for the board is a mirror image of the pinout when you are looking at the face of the plug. It may be more useful to think of it looking at the back of...

This is a “correct” 1967 bezel for the non-retractable OEM antenna, combined with a cheap Amazon fully retractable manual antenna. Everything above the chrome base came from an aftermarket kit. I don’t recall which parts I used under the fender. The thick black plastic piece under the nut is...

You can find Mopar chrome bezels on eBay. Barracuda is unique, and 67 is different than 68-69, but you don't care about that (and some B-body ones are almost identical styling). What you need are a nut that threads onto the antenna base that you have (this should be part of the power antenna...

I used a factory chrome fender bezel with an aftermarket power antenna. All antennas have similar hardware, there are just differences in hole diameters and thread pitch on the securing nuts. I had a pile of parts, some factory, some aftermarket, and mixed and matched until I had a combo that...

Since this topic is NOT covered in the service manual, I thought I would post a how-to based on my recent experience. Step 1: Disconnect the battery ground cable. Step 2: Remove the center boss from the horn ring by giving it a 1/4 turn counter-clockwise. Step 3: Unplug the horn wire...

I am pretty sure you have to pull the steering wheel. Mine burnt out recently, and after examining it I couldn’t see any other means of access. The FSM is uncharacteristically mum on this subject. I found my puller, now I am just waiting for my other car to get out of the paint shop before I...

On a 67-69 A body rally dash (Barracuda) the fuel gauge includes the instrument voltage regulator. If this fails, it quickly burns out the fuel gauge and possibly the oil pressure gauge. Other A-bodies have a separate instrument voltage regulator, and since they usually have a idiot light for...

I can reach all the bulbs with the dash in place, but I have narrow, flexible hands, thin wrists, and I don't mind a few scratches. And I already know where they all are by feel. It would be massively frustrating if you didn't already know where they were. A mirror or a horoscope would certainly...

One more thing to try: the horns often get "stuck" due to lack of use. To unstick it, lay it on a block of wood and give it a good whack right on the center bolt (NOT the bell) with a nonmetallic hammer. They can often be jarred loose this way.

I agree with the previous comments, plus I don't think you can even do it because you have to drive out the pin in the lower shaft in order to pull the shaft and have decent access to the springs. I bet you can't even see the springs in the distributor while it's in the car, unless you lay out...

Are those blue or bright white? I tried blue LEDs because I thought it might be a neat effect, but I found out I was almost colorblind to that wavelength — I could tell they were illuminated but I couldn't read any of the markings at all. I hadn't taken into account that there are blue lenses on...

Oh yeah, also remember the fuel gauge runs at lower voltage, so always run the 12V through the IVR circuit — don't connect directly to the gauge pins if you are testing the gauges as well as the lamps.

I happened to have a model railroad transformer, adjustable from 0 to 24 volts. It made bench testing easy — no clumsy jumper cables and I didn't have to pull a battery from a car, I just added alligator clips to the output wires.

If the car wasn't being daily driven, the headlight switch can become corroded. You can try operating it again and again to try to clean the contacts (push/pull, twist/twist, over and over), or just buy a new switch. The fact that the gauges work is great, and suggests the cluster plug is OK...

Yes, we sorted this out in post #37.

#37 – At least Alan explained the redundant part number issue. To me it seems totally weird that they would put a different part number tag SCREWED to the BODY of the distributor just because they wanted to stock a replacement WITHOUT rotor and cap (how would the guys who assembled it know...

Ok, thanks for the education on this. I got the car back and it is running better, but they disconnected the vac advance completely. If it ever stops raining I will see what I can do with it.

I have dealt with a broken ground wire in the past... "Been There, Done That". What I am curious about is, what is the effect of these alterations? 1. Stiffer spring = advance comes in more slowly (seems obvious). No idea where you would get a replacement spring. 2. The limiter — not sure what...

Yeah, BTDT with the ground wire.

Yeah, the dual points have an adjustable vacuum pot. You unscrew the nipple and there is an o-ring and a short stack of washers, or one thick washer. But I have never come across any info about how you actually adjust these. When the original vacuum pot failed, I took it apart to see what the...

I'm pretty sure the distributor hasn't been messed with other than high mileage. Oh, except the vacuum advance was replaced... possibly with a different washer pack, but it doesn't seem to be the problem, anyway. Just curious -- what is the effect of adding/subtracting washers to the vacuum...

It's at a shop because my new HOA won't let me work on it in my driveway. They have been driving it w/o the vac advance, and they set the timing to stock (10ºB). But they just called to say when they did that, it made the idle slightly rougher, and they could hear the heat riser flapping, and...

The carb was lean at cruise — fixed. Timing was a tad advanced (14 at idle). Trying a different set of plugs now.

Ah, got it. Where it seemed to be pinging was half throttle, right off cruise. Which didn't seem right, because as soon as you depress the accelerator, the vacuum drops right off (per the gauge).

Doh! That didn't occur to me, because I have no way to directly measure distributor timing. That example is exactly what I have, interestingly.

OK, that makes sense. I have been studying up on the ignition specs because I'm trying to figure out why my car is pinging so bad. Apparently it was pulling 53º total advance, which is nuts. All in, by the book, should be 32.5º (I'm assuming the 10º at 1800 is the maximum centrifugal advance)...

Well, I can't say he is "wrong", since it's the same part. But a "correct" tag for a 67 w/o CAP should be 2642242 based on actual evidence. He was probably fooled by a parts interchange manual showing 66 and 67 as identical, which is true, but for some reason Mopar changed the number on the tag...

Yes, I did. What book are you referring to? I was looking at the Plymouth factory service manuals for 1966 and 1967. Seems there is a contradiction. I suspect the 1967 FSM is actually correct, because it lists the part number that is actually installed on my very original car (2nd owner). But...

Yes, I just checked the 1966 FSM, and the specs are identical between it and the 2642242 which is what is listed for 1967 (and is in my 67 FB). But the # is listed for 1966. So, why the different part number, is my question? Whatever...

OK, found an older thread about this PN. I was right about 1966, apparently... dual point distrubutor ??