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I really think you will want to remove all the interior trim, or you won't be able to see where it is leaking.

Yes, Argent Silver is what the factory called it. You should be able to buy it from Mopar-specific vendors. Krylon Dull Aluminum is pretty close, for some parts.

It would help to see a proper scan of it. The photo is barely high enough resolution to read, as well as being distorted.

I would call them roof rail molding and roof rail molding weatherstrip. Both were available for my 67 Barracuda fastback... not sure which car you need them for. The weatherstrip is just a roll of material that you cut to length.

One more source: Restoration Specialties & Supply, Inc. www.restorationspecialties.com

DD-1 is a metallic color, as are ALL of the 1967 Plymouth colors with the word "poly" in the name. 1967 DD-1 is "Light Blue Poly", a silvery-blue metallic. I had a Barracuda convertible that was DD-1. I can't speak to the current color of your car, if it has been repainted.

Mist Green for 1968 is Mopar code FF-1. The Ditzler paint code is 43646.

The body shop lost my hood hinges, so I had to source some in a hurry from eBay when it was ready for paint and they realized that. I have a similar problem. They both wobble, one of them practically scrapes, and they both make horrible screeching noises because the body guy didn't think to lube...

Pretty sure the door glass is also different between convertible and hardtop. It definitely is on a Barracuda. It's all about the rooflines...

The fact that he has the formula renders the paint code irrelevant. He doesn’t want someone to look up a formula for “B5” — he wants them to mix more paint to this formula, so it will match what he has.

You can't, because the 68 trim takes a different seal. You could reuse the seal if you were going to continue using the 67 trim (assuming you could remove the seal intact — not a given).

OK, the Plymouth color names are shown in the righthand column — Eddie was using the Chrysler names. I provided the factory codes for the blue tones. The thing is, paint formulations have changed — the only way to really match an old spec is to scan a sample. My question for Eddie is, which...

Those names don't seem to be 1967 Plymouth factory colors. Where did you get them? Here are the 1967 Plymouth "blues": CC-1 Ditzler#13159 Medium Blue DD-1 #13043 Light Blue EE-1 #13040 Dark Blue That's it. No "Arctic Blue" or "Bright Blue", and I...

If your question is just about which grill or trunk trim belongs on a 67. 68 or 69, looking at photos of members' cars is probably a good way. Or, as noted, post a photo of the specific piece and it will be identified.

The Plymouth Factory Service Manual is the first reference for this. There is one for each year, but the 1967 manual unfortunately does not include Barracuda — there is a separate 1967 Barracuda Supplement book. The basic information on order of assembly is provided, with exploded views. The...

The trunk trim is aluminum. The shiny part was polished and anodized, but this oxidizes matt and dull over time. You can buff it back to shiny on a wheel, but you need to clear coat it or it will go dull again. The "argent" (dull silver) part is Mopar light argent paint. Krylon dull aluminum in...

There are several vacuum plating services that restore dash bezels and other plastic parts. GCAR is one that I have used. They do a very nice job but it is expensive with a long lead time. It's not really something you would do at home..

If you have the screws and clips, just measure the shank of the screws, or consult a table (screw size to drill bit). I looked, but I didn't have any leftover screws from when I did it.

One difference is that the fender script has a long tail on the final "a" — the trunk script has a short tail. The other is that the fender script has long pins to go through the sheet metal with nuts on the back side — the trunk trim script has short peened rivets on the back — it is not meant...

Interesting. I was going to say, the 67-69 Dart and Barracuda used the same top frame. I wonder, if the different part number is due to something relatively trivial like the shape of the rear window opening? Or just the colors available?

Steve is a genius. X2

Yeah, it looks like you have a 67 deck lid that someone drilled out for the 69 panel. This was (obviously) not a great plan considering it was a 68 Barracuda. You really have to have the tail panel(s) that match the taillights, or the whole thing will look like a kludge. But since you don't...

It's not original. Period. It's something a lot of people have done as a mod, going back 50 years, because that plastic lockstrip didn't last 5 years in the sun. Back when the stainless was still available from the dealer, it would be a no-brainer to replace the trim any time you had to replace...

Here's my measurement without rocker molding. My two Barracudas measured slightly different from the wheel well molding, but that's probably just based on how well the molding fit — at least of them is a repro set. The vertical measurement is along the curve using a tape.

I have a full passenger side 67 fender. But it was drilled for the gill molding and that hole is badly rusted out, so it needs a small patch (2 inch) in the lower part. And shipping from CA would be pricey.

All the Pentastars are the same, if that was the question. I can take measurements without a rocker molding, if that helps.

There is a lot of aero force on the spoiler. I would be inclined to just use the screw holes. The deck lid is a very common part that would be easy to replace if you don't want to fill the holes later, but even that isn't a consideration if you are planning to keep the spoiler.

Ah, they are very similar on the coil side, but the bracket is the giveaway. I guess all of mine are Prestolite. I can't recall ever seeing a welded bracket — it doesn't let you adjust the orientation of the bell.

Both of my 67s have the spiral type horn, which looks like the one CI is selling.

If it were 1969 it might have been some kind of new federal regulation regarding the loudness or even the frequency range, but if it changed at all between 67 and 69 it would have been some arbitrary thing like the tone, unless they changed to a new supplier. All the Mopar horns I am familiar...