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Ive had 3 plastic radiators expire, thats all I can describe them as doing as when I pulled them, the plastic was so thin in spots that I coiuld break through with finger pressure and it gets very brittle. Cracks everywhere, one Minivan rad had clips molded into the tanks that the AC condenser...

plastic broke catostrophically , cast iron/Aluminum didnt. I guess that's my case. I can handle a leak, but not a break. On the 3 slants Ive had, none had AL necks. I guess they went the same as the AL blocks, to the corrosion graveyard.

My 61 slant head has the original stat housing, cast iron. How many were made in 31 years that are still serviceable...all of them? I've just never had one explode on me like this one. Found the piece on top of the rad shroud 10 inches away.

92 with 203K I know what your gonna say, "it lasted 200K miles.." yes...it DID. multiple cracks noted in remains. After I replaced it (2 nuts) The $160 IAC motor seized up and the idle went 1100-2100,1100-2100 like the second hand on a watch. Not serviceable: HA! Took the thing apart, cleaned...

Here's a new one. Not your ordinary plastic rad cracking and leaking....no this was a complete blow out of a plastic stat housing on my SC400. WTH? Make these in metal! You can get these in cast AL for $99 AUS. Boy just idling waiting for Mom and he hears a pop and steam starts coming out of...

2012 Caravan rear blend door making a clicking racket every time the mode is changed from foot to dash ventilation. Made a how-to Blend door actuator gear skipping https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ams/newer-fca-blend-door-clicking-repair.396/

I think these are like Alternators. Very few parts ever go bad (minus a lock up) and they are easily replaceable, ie valve plates and O-rings.

Got it handled...took the old one out and the 2 wire harness was charred behind a metal bracket and was shorting to ground. Yard pull had good harness, bolted it in with old spacer, blamo! Cold air....Nice $18 bucks spent. still working.....

let it idle for about 30 minutes, maybe watching the temp and putting a piece of cardboard over the rad to get it up into the higher range. that oil should get nice and hot, hopefully enough to boil out the moisture. Also if you let it sit for a week or so, the water will be at bottom of pan and...

Reseal kit available...I guess thats all it takes if its not grenaded. Took me a while to find out the Lexus part number is a 10PA20C series. I got a lot of green dye by the manifold and connectors...

Yes, that's what Im looking for but am not sure now if the compressor is a swarsh plate piston or a geroter style like a '92 Honda compressor I saw taken down. I guess Ill have to do a bit more research. Its probably just a bad expansion valve on my 'ol 92 SC400. Here is that corrected link for...

Can you rebuild a Denso 10 piston swash plate compressor if its not grenaded? I guess it would only need new gaskets, bearings and reed valve plates? $450 for a rebuilt is high for me. And then, who sells the plates?

I think it shorted internally and burned here. Insulation was pretty crispy. >>> Matter-of-fact, it was shorting the PCM system. We were getting intermittent A/C indicator (not a low signal) as well as hi-lo blend button. All lights stable now.<<<

Mother F'r....right under the metal harness bracket. Not sure why the coil failed from this but I'm glad it didn't short the PCM that runs the show down here. No relay in this circuit ....if I read right. New coil energizes fine, clutch surface is a little glazed but that's for another time...

What is the normal engine RPM that they suggest, I usually end up reading it at about 1800-2000 RPM That's where this 6-8 speed van cruises.

Good stuff here! Just dipping my toe into A/C systems, ie, "Husband, you NEED to get my A/C working again or were going to take it to a $$$hop!" Oi veh......I can't jimmy rig this one with my R290 end-around.

OK, clutch coil is BAD. 12V battery right to a harness pigtail plugged into coil, zilch. No click, clack spark or buzz. Now....anyone got a bad compressor from just about anything FCA laying around that they want to sell me the coil out of? These things are $150 alone! CHRYSLER 200 2011-2014...

May be helpful for the novice.

Yes: The only switch I found was on the high side up at the drier. Its a 3 pin so its not just a 'jump it' type of connection. I also read that you can't jump these 3 pins as it will damage the ECU that drives this system. So the test is put the whole plug in water (?) and sure enough, the fans...

No, I got a 21 year old that refuses to roll down his window after I fixed the 3rd guide pin that had come out, causing the window to **** and bind. BTW he has no AC either so he's gonna be sweating unless he trusts me on that window now. So I got a pigtail for that clutch harness at the junk...

So just 12V+ to green and ground to black inside connector? Can do, I'll have to release the clip of the plug to see in there. I should have continuity though, right? A coil is just that, an open loop.

is replacing the clutch coil an option? $29 on Rock......

My '12 Caravan compressor clutch is not engaging. I've got 110 psi in the A/C low side with motor off, I have 14V to the clutch harness (measuring red to 12+ and black to harness leads) and even motor off I have 7.57V (up from 0V after about 40 seconds of turning motor off and pulling the key)...

My friends dad mixed Mercedes Benz green stuff with Prestone and it created jello! He spent hours flushing it out. In non freezing climates, Mopar recommended Distilled water and the rust inhibitor supplement.

I think I know exactly where this is as I replaced the cabin filter once in this , its right above the passenger foot well. Son has car so Ill have ot check it out this weekend.....first week back to college dorms.....:-(

WTH, this looks accessible! Im not sure where this is but it may be behind the glove box as that plenum looks like a floor heater duct.

educate me on the sense bulb. Its the bulb at the end of the capillary tube but at what temp does the thing do something? Hot or cold to open the valve? Im not versed in A/C so Im assuming the valve is shut until the bulb changed temp and then the valve opens to start letting the refrigerant...

one of my cars 92 Lexus SC400 A/C will not cool. Pump is good I believe as I can see pressure change from high to low when the compressor kicks in. I have 50 psi of R134 in the system when the compressor is running and about 130 psi when its not running from the low side port. I have very slight...

noise reduction comes to mind. The even spaced "chopper" blades create a frequency (google chrysler air-raid siren) and if you can break that frequency up (different blade spacing) you can reduce the drone. To think Chrysler developed this minute feature and ignored UTG's slant six "oil sloshing...

Not reading every post, i can tell you how I fill my R290 system (R290 (also known as hydrocarbon or HC) refrigerant, which is natural, non-toxic, and free of ozone-depleting properties. Approved in 2011, HC has a low GWP and is one of the most climate-friendly and cost-effective refrigerants...