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Well we all know some people have something done many years ago and then it just sits on the floor in the corner of the garage for longer than it took their kid to graduate high school and now they just want it out of the way because the project it was for is already gone. I never said it was...

Yeah. I'm gonna pass. Appreciate the thoughts and keeping my head straight, FABO.

So assuming a slant and a 318 904 form the same generation, are all the internals interchangeable? I have a core 318 904 that needs rebuilt. I can get a rebuilt many years ago and never installed slant 904 for 80 bucks locally. Can I swap the slant 904 guts into the 318 unit?

I agree with the prices mentioned elsewhere in this thread. However, in the last 10 years, I've bought 5 of them and never paid more than $250 for a complete A body 8.75 with an open diff. The latest was about 2 years ago, here on Fabo - guy only wanted $100 drum to drum. Is a 3.23 sure...

I think you guys read that backwards. Sounds like he has a slant. And slant bell housing. Wants to know if a 4sp box will bolt to the slant bell, which I'm guessing is currently a 3sp? I, myself, don't know the answer. @65Dart270Sedan can you clarify your question?

I'll be passing thru Georgia in 2 weeks on my way to Orlando. Just sayin...... https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/65-67-b-body-8-75.540809/#post-1974327065

I know you looked inside the slip yoke and it looks good - any noticeable knicks on the outside of the yoke that might hang up on the bushing? Too much lube/grease and you're hydra-locking it on? "Feel" each spline inside the yoke with a long pick of some sort to make sure they are all clear...

Take a measuring stick with you to make sure it is what he says it is.

So what is the perch to perch measurement?

Shooooot...... in the last 12 years, I've bought 5 A body 8.75's drum to drum. The most I've paid was $400, the most recent this year cost me only $100 and it's a 3.23 sure grip, to boot.

Yes. And it is upside down. That being said, when you flip it over, looks like the perches will be on top of the springs - came out of a truck.

Build what ya want, keep the hood closed to not get beat up. LOLOLOLOLOLOL. That being said, if i ever build a Cobra kit car it will be around a 440.......

Labor rates up my way range from $90-110 an hour. Times 4 plus "shop" fees.

Sounds like it broke the rear band?..... trans has to come out.

If the witness marks are in fact from starter movement, I'd suspect that top bolt in the bolt pic. The shanked part of the bolt looks pretty long - i's the bolt bottoming out in the bell housing hole, giving you a false sense of being tight on the starter?

Easier and quicker the swap tail shafts. Unless you don't have one to swap.

......pay attention to the tail shaft. Nevermind flattening the firewall/floor seam and maybe mini-tubbing the tunnel north of the factory console bracket. We did all that when we put the 1st 727 behind the 408 in my son's 65 B'cuda a couple of years ago. He developed a leak and ran it too...

This should get you headed in the right direction..

Thanks for the insight, folks. 71 it will be. I'll keep one of the others for a spare/future project. We're planning a move this summer and I'm starting my plan to cleannout some.

Eventually, one on these years, I'm going to finish the 68 B'cuda ragtop. I am going with a 383 that I may or may not stroke out to 4-something. Regardless, it's an automatic car and will stay as such. Brings me to my question. I have avail to me, 3 727's. Wondering if one would be preferred...

Swapped the 3.23 for 3.55 in the landyacht several years ago. Made a noticeable seat of the pants improvement in take offs. Stock 318 bottom end, 340 6pack cam/heads/intake, 225/70/15s 69 Fury ragtop. I'm also 2.5 hours from Carlisle. If I keep my foot out of it, I can make it there and back...

I've bought 3 complete A body 8.75 rear ends in the last 5 years. Cheapest was $150 and never paid more than $400. But, I've seen them go for $800. It's worth what you are willing to pay compared to what the seller wants. And if you are pleased with the deal, go for it and don't worry too much...

Flex plate, torque converter, kick down linkage/cable.

From a private seller - $100. From a U Pull It yard - $whatever they get for a complete differential every day.

Pull the distributor so you don't break it on the firewall when the motor leans back. I would support the back of the motor from the top somehow.

I'm Goin with Dr Diff. After paying on Jakes wisdom teeth last week and for Jessica's tonsils later this month, I'm waiting until my tax return gets here.

Contacted Cass. Dr Diff is the direction I'm going. Was going to do it this coming week, but my social coordinator reminded me about the wisdom teeth Jake is losing on Thursday and the tonsils will be coming out of my 6 yr old little girl the following week. Gonna have to wait for tax returns...

The 71 imperial I parted out had larger than a 4.5" bolt pattern......

Have these from a 69 C body. Are they the good ones that are able to be shortened to stock A body length and re-splined?

Forgot to mention, albeit a minor thing, we had to bend the dipstick tube. But that may be because he's running 5.9 Durango manifolds.... that part escapes me.