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Year, make and model of the car of which you speak? Lmao... I retract my question. I did not even read it in your title. DUH! My bad.

Hot snot, we're back in business! Wired in an external VR, and all is well. Except the tach. Not worrying with that at this time. Tags and registration next week. I did not go with the $500 stripe kit.

Mine is #321. Bought it new. Wife says sell it. We honeymooned in it. I refuse to sell it. It's too much fun to drive. LOL The charging circuit was working the day I took the truck apart. I know crap can go bad at any given moment, so who knows. One more thing to look thru, I guess. Any...

I tested things as Del laid out in post number 2. Looks like I'm going to wire in an external regulator at lunch tomorrow. I've got a couple of used regulators and at least one factory pigtail on a shelf somewhere.

Hmmm... just guessing here, but maybe the original negative wire to the coil?

Thanks Del - sounds like a great place to start, and fairly basic. Dana - there was no crank position sensor on the original motor.

My Shelby Dakota. Pulled the throttle bodied 318, threw together a warm little carburrated 360 with a stand alone mopar electronic ignition. All emissions relayed wiring is not terminated, just laid back out of the way. I have all original ground straps bolted to the back of the head. The...

I'm good on the flexplate. I'll have to check on the lock up vs non lock up.

This will be in my Shelby Dakota that I'm building the 360 for. I have the parts to go mopar stand alone. Was us wondering if I really needed to. As for losing the ECU, I'll have to also look deeper into if it controls any of the gauge readings in the dash. Thanks for the insight folks!

So here's the questions of the day, because some of you are smarter than me. 1989 318, factory 2 barrel throttle body. I'm switching to a 4 barrel set up. Do I have to convert the ignition to a stand alone system, such as a mopar electronic set up? Pertronic, MSD? If I leave the ECM plugged...

I believe the larger hole goes over the stud in the trans. It is larger to clear the un-threaded part of the stud.

You're selling the correct parts.... it would be the buyer making the wrong purchase..... LOL

None of them if your 360 ignition set up is the same as it was for the slant...... What/who's/type of ignition system are you running? Mopar points? Mopar electronic? Pertonics? MSD? HEI conversion? More info please... ..

"I attempt to start the car. It cranks for long as I want, but will not fire" Are you cranking so long that you're overheating the starter and blowing the fuse? Or does it do it if you only crank it for just 1 second as well? If the 1st question is yes - ballast resistor? Ignition control...

I'd bet on the contacts on the cam of the turns signal switch.

My 1st thought was turning the blower switch on to start the car was someone's home-grown antitheft sequence of how to get the car to start..... After surviving too long, it finally suffered a meltdown that could have resulted in fire. He may be better off replacing the harness as a whole once...

Gotta love it when you tell people they are not correct, show them pictures, and they still don't get it.

I don't know you well enough to say if you are an idiot or not. But this does verify you're human like the rest of us. :poke:

Wasn't sure of the change over year. But my point being, could be the alternator and/or the vr. And yes, as always, test before replacing parts blindly. It's all good - I'm not going to get all pissy about it. LOL.

Had a 69 roadrunner years ago go full charge and blew out the low beam headlights on the way home from the track. Disconnected the alternator and drove home on the battery and high beams. Alternator and voltage regulator both went bad. My guess is the alternator blew out the VR. I replaced...

That's not an idea... that's a given! But I like the way you think RRR.

Ignition switch? Evan beat me to it....

Yes. This is a much simpler look at how it's hooked up. And pretty much what he is going to do. There was really nothing too special about the original that we can't do ourselves and make it look presentable.

Option 2. The car is not at original car anyway so we can do it neatly and make it work

I could make something like that work and run a seperate wire from the starter back to the relay.

So where is the best place to get a new original type positive battery cable ? 65 Barracuda.

Timer for the ignition switch light. Keeps the light on for a predetermined amount of time so you can see where to put the key at night. My 69 Fury has one, but it doesn't pass power at all, so I wired the key light into the dash lights.

You're on the right track. Pick a brake/turn signal wire as your feed to tap in to like you did. Now wire in the and/or gate , unless the 3rd light has one already pre-wired, (don't know the third brake light term for it) and you should be good to go. One wire into the 3rd light and the other...

Jake needs to decide if he wants to keep this and tag it historic, or keep his 02 ram.

Chased the threads and the new one went right in.