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That's all installed degree. What most people miss is CR..... Take a stock truck 360 and drop a 110 LCA, 226 @ .050 and it''ll sound like a monster. Up it to 10.5:1 and it'll sound like a HP motorboat.

I figure I'm going 16:1 manual. Less issues in the future with a BB in the future.

Looks like you are running rack and pinon?

Well, got a big bonus at work so it's happening. I've heard bad things about newer Milodon's leaking (I never had an issue with Milodon in the past, but I'm talking late 80's) so I'll test it with diesel fuel before I mock it up.

Will this fit? Notes on this part on the Summit site say it'll fit 67 and later with a 73 and up K member only.

You sure it's at TDC on the compression stroke?

Yes, that is how they are supposed to look (assuming they look like RRR's pic).

Replace the regulator and adjust for about 6.5 lbs for your Holley. Some fuel pumps have them built in and some do not. What fuel pump are you running? if you don't run one, fuel pump pressure can creep up and override the float and needle and flood your crankcase with fuel.

The problem with that style of evac system is that it only works at WOT. Great for a strip car, not so hot for a street car.

I hate it when that happens! j/k man. Like Fishy, I use locktite on the oil pump bolts as well. Sometimes we get distracted... The dog is chasing the neighbors cat, the phone rings, the wife sends you on an errand, etc. Stuff happens but you caught it, that's what counts.

Agreed.

Rings are probably stuck due to being in storage assuming it didn't smoke prior to being put away. Take it for a drive if you can and see if they'll expand. Not much you can do otherwise. I know someone will say "Seafoam it", lol.

:thumleft:

Nope, not necessary. It's a just makes life easier in colder climates on a daily driver so you don't have to sit there and manually muck with the idle via the throttle while it warms up or pump the crap out of it when it hits 0 F or below.

You can purchase bearings for a crank with fillets, what specifically are you working on? BTW, I would not reuse those bearings, they've been mashed.

Mine were not.... nor is the time/tutalage taken to know how use one, lol. A mic will not let you know if the crank was incorrectly ground in a horizontal plane either, plasticrap does work in that respect without a granite table, dial indicator and V blocks..... on the mains anyway. :happy1:

If you do check the clearances at 90 intervals, you'll see if the crank is offset. Your measuring point is correct, the crank just needs to cleaned of plastigauge and rotated 90 for every measurement. Cheap insurance.... Your shop may not be to blame, depends on what you asked of them. You...

Yow! Street car at 7k! Ok, I Gotcha... I really think you should be able to hit your stated goals at 6k but anyways, yeah, .0025 should be about right for your intended use. Did you plastigauge that crank at 90 degree intervals? If you did and all was the same, a good polish by a REPUTABLE crank...

I have to agree. Taylor and MSD make the best wires I've ever used.

lmao!

Please, please dont buy a cam for the sound. Give us your measured CR, Intended use, carburetion, intake manifold, present valvetrain and gearing.

Clearance guidlines are with the crank resting on the bottom bearing via plastigauge or by micing the crank OD and torqued bearing ID, they are the same. THINK about it...

Rodzilla, what is your intended purpose of this build? This question is key to you getting the clearance you need. .0015 is fine for street with the correct oil viscosity for your temperature (read this as NO 20W-50!!!). Are you driving in winter? Are you drag racing? What is your redline? What...

T&D makes a real, real nice product. I'm using Crane Gold's my last 360 build and have had zero issues. Proforms have soft adjusters, stay away.

And there you go, a cam with intake duration in the mid 20's. :) That should fit the bill nicely.

70aar is correct. That cam has far too much duration for a small displacement, stock compression engine. A good cam for a stock comp 318 would be no more than about 228 deg at .050 on the intake side and something in the 224 range would be even better. Handicapping it with small port heads...

Right on point as usual moper. You wrote that while I was completing my "manifesto", lol. :burnout:

Longevity is directly related to piston speed, rod ratio, rpm, cylinder pressure and time. The more HP you make at what rpm and FOR HOW LONG is key. A longer stroke will have a higher piston speed than a shorter stroke at a given rpm for any engine, hence more wear. A longer skirt will help but...

Once again, it's not about "long timing", but about overlap. In otherwords, it's about how long in degrees that both the intake and exhaust valves are open, not about total duration. 1wild&crazyguy tried to put this forth before, but you would not listen. KB pistons use .006 figures for...

LOL! I love this.... Cracks me up and i've been up and down the too big and small cam road not only on V-8's, but bikes that run up to 14K+ rpm. No joke.