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Agree, don't cut the pillars if ya can avoid it. If its too damaged and ya got to cut the whole thing off, brace up the glass openings all the way around.

Strip the whole quarter first, you may find more surprises and need the full panel.

Best , Sherms plating in Cali. Heard paulschrome in Pennsylvania is good also

If you have done nothing to add any rigidity/stiffness to the car then leave em in.

Get a new hood

Part #71DM-RT / 71DM-LT out of the Layson's catalog

Sand blast it and prime it. Otherwise your not going to be sure that mess is gone.

Find a new painter, have it shot again after sanding it all down.

I like em.....those were on my list, but just ordered the RingBros teardrop shaped ones

Most important question from Dartnut. The time involved doesn't seem outrageous. But, for an "officially 5 digit paint job" the glass and all panels should have been pulled. It's hard to tell from the pics, but did they disassemble the front clip for paint?

I would not do it sitting on "its own suspension" as suggested above. That sounds like a lot of lying on your back with a welder and grinder in your face. Brace up the door opening and start drilling out the spot welds if your removing the floor. Not sure about a square profile. Might look...

Uh, sheet metal repair (make patch panels) or replace the whole roof panel. As stated earlier in the thread, remove the headliner first

Paint it with the same material as the outside of the car

Have ya measured the two in comparison?

I would blast the area, find a donor car section and go at it

^^ there ya go. Or use some of the RadRides bolts that Billet specialties makes for them. http://www.radrides.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Gear&Category_Code=Rastners

The way your asking....8-9hrs. ZERO prep or sealer. No cut/buff or "addressing the nibs"

Materials are expensive. Painting over somebody else's prep is risky from a body shop perspective

All-Metal or a similar filler over the seam, then body filler as a skim coat. I'd make sure the outside ends of the panel are fully welded if you don't want to do weld it solid.

http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator.html rattle can that quarter full of it and move on

Get some rust encapsulator and spray it up in there After you remove the quarter you will see more surface rust in the upper sail anyway

Are you replacing the quarter (as stated in your first post) or re-using it as stated in post#5??? I agree with CUUDAK dont cut it off unless your replacing it.

Mask off the area you are working on (probably trim line down) Sand it down with the 80grit (if you set on the 40grit, go easy with it), Rattle on some epoxy (SEM brand) Spray a decent color match rattle can and be done with it or buy a Raptor liner kit to do the whole rocker......for...

Agree....I would also inquire as to the shop's brand of products

I'd rather have a bunch of "crap" falling into the voids than looking a trunk full of spray foam. I wont prevent water from getting down there......it will only trap it. Have an interior panel built to keep it free of debris.

Looks, imo. But if you think they look cool why not use one, they're cheap.

Working on a similar look for my car, but stretching the metal and swapping the fender openings to a Duster, not adding flares. Just swapping the openings added almost 3/4" of an inch, which is about done. Waiting on some metal from the metalyard to pull em out a bit, maybe get another 3/8" or...

http://nu-relics.com/mopar.html

Cutting the whole front of the car off and you dont want to take out the windshield? I think the cowl will be ok, I would throw in a couple of braces though to be on the safe side