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i would go .89 its what is on the 69 convert I drive now and it is a nice size bar. I had 1.03 on a 68 Valiant and it made it ride bad in my opinion, however it turned like a go kart.

Got it, undid the pivot shaft and got it out and I'll get everything pressed out of the LCA

So I need to remove the LCA with the pin attached? The service manual tells me to leave the pin and slide it off. There is nothing attached to the Control Arm anymore. Strut rods are gone torsion bar removed, zero suspension attached simply a floating control arm I can't get to budge.

Yeah, no suspension left other then the lca's

First time removing LCA's and having a bit of trouble. I followed everything in the service manual and have double checked everything. I have nothing holding the LCA's on the K Member other then the pin from the k member that goes into the control arm bushing. I have put a pry bar to the control...

Ripping my car apart for a full restoration. I will be doing the majority of the work myself along with help from some very experienced and skilled people. I have a 16:1 manual box that is stock from factory with a ton of miles on it so I probably should have it rebuilt. Is it a difficult...

I believe the taller are lower

Ha, how did that happen on a non for sale ad

If your going to toss them give them some good shots with a 3lb hammer, worked for me. I needed a pickle fork for my upper ball joint though

You won't want to use por15 or Eastwoods as they typically need rusted surfaces to adhere properly. I always use vht high temp cast iron color paint and it's worked well

assuming they are full length

I liked mine when I had them on, the car drove like a go-kart. But they definitely do not fit with TTI's

They will not, had to remove mine from a 69 barracuda. Still have them on the shelf

With those front tires you should have no issue, you will never beat the road feel of a 16:1 manual

Love my factory 16:1... What is your front tire size

yes i should have mentioned I only have 215/60r15 up front. Any wider would start to become a hassle

24:1 was a stock factory box, 16:1 was the quick steer box from factory. Most likely yours if manual steering is 24:1

All depends, I have 16:1 manual now switching from a power steering car and I couldn't be happier. Parallel parking is the only thing that is at all "difficult". In not big by any means and you sure can't beat the road feel

^x2 Subframe connectors made my car quieter by reducing rattles believe it or not, it has been one of the most instant and noticeable differences and I will do it to every car from now on.

No smaller ps gear, you'll need a manual column shaft and a manual gear. It will be easy to find a 24:1 gear but harder to find a 16:1 or 20:1. Manual brakes, just pull the booster and get a manual rod, should be easy and cheap. You may contact tony aka whitepunkonnitro, he may have what you need

Can someone tell me what would have come with a 68 HD Suspension option? I know a sway bar, I am assuming hd springs, and would it have heavier torsion bars? The car is a non formula s barracuda.

Do you parallel park a lot? I say get it!

inline tube sells a kit that will allow you to bolt up a dual res master cylinder for a very reasonable price. Come with a distribution block and lines from the mc to it

To answer your question. I don't have near that slop and here is my plan for my 65 Upper control arm bushings Lower control arm bushings Tie rod ends Idler arm Upper and lower ball joints Strut rod bushings Power steering box I got all my moog stuff from rock auto Another thought while you're...

I did this and added nearly 1/8" of a sleeve... I love it, plan on doing it to every car I own from here on out

Can they be replaced without fooling with the lower control arm or is it more effort than its worth and I should just wait until I rebuild the front and do it then? The bushings are in bad shape but I plan on rebuilding the front end when I do disc brakes this winter.

Hoses are different too, you can get them on rock auto for a decent price

What kind of pump are you planning on? Saginaw? I'd alter it to lower the pressure if that's the case. Don't forget fluid!

I did this to all my vehicles it really makes a difference... You will have to do some fab work as the inner diameter/outer diameter is not a readily available combination of washers... I actually went more extreme then ehrenberg describes and added about 1/8th inch collar to mine.

Swapping from the federal pump in my 65 dart with a 273 to a saginaw pump so I can adjust the pressure. Anyone know what brackets will work on my motor? I went to the yard yesterday and the only sag brackets I found were on a few 80 Rams but the brackets bolted in to holes on the block/head that...