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I did this on my e-body and overall I am very happy. The lift was a good bit....about an inch or so MORE Than superstocks, I think. I raised my front t bars a little and I like the raked look that I ended up with.

When I was installing the tranny on my fish, I ran a ratchet strap between the frame members, running under the oil pan...used a 2x12 there to distribute the load......held the motor up just fine. So I would think that if you did the same thing it would work, provided you had the tranny end...

If you refer to my post you will see I apologized for that before posting -- however, i am not the one who posted content that is meant to stir up crap. You didn't comment on the two other posters who made the original remarks nor the one that Oldmanmopar made, which i think is completely rude...

Sorry guys...I came across this thread a little late and saw the motorcycle comments and I just HAVE to chime in. I have been riding my street bike for going on 15 years. Its a Honda VTX1300, big cruiser style bike. And yes, one of the first things I did was go out and get louder pipes on it...

Reopening this post, hoping maybe someone can now provide a place.... I had a shop do the alignment last year and now I have excessive wear on the outside edges of both tires, about the same between the two. Assuming excessive positive camber... I gave him these specs... Caster 4.0* Camber...

I dont have an a-body...I have a 72 e body....but I will echo that 1" is the way to go. I lucked into a deal on the web on 1" bars and figured I would try them. WOOOOOOOOOW! The car is flat in corners now.....a little stiff at times, but overall, excellent IMHO.

I have a stage 3 firm feel, but havent had it over 20 mph yet.....still need an alignment...looking for a good place for that. But I will tell you it is a LOT tighter/heavier than the stock one was.

Anyone here have a line on a Mopar-expeirenced alignment shop around Pittsburgh? Close to the 15132 zip would be best. Thanks guys.

Thanks guys....got the pin out after some cussing and knuckle bashing...LOL :cheers: The new one actually went in easier......I *think* I have it centered ok......took a bunch of tried to get that, like you said..... Still painting stuff for the reassemble.... ...I sure do hope this all...

Ok...I give up. Whats the trick in getting the cross pin (the one at the bottom of the steering shaft that goes inside the coupler) out of the shaft so I can replace it? I was able to use a BFH and get it out to the point of one side being flush with the shaft...but then I am stuck.....tried a...

I have the coupling repair kit/seal on its way.... Funny thing though is that the description I gave you was pointing at a round seal in the COLUMN in the picture......so either the picture was wrong or I wrote down the wrong description.... I really need info on what the end of the column...

I lucked out...the dealer here has the book and allowed me to look thru it and find all I needed.... Still looking for: --retaining plate -- one bolt for signal switch/retainer plate (have a make-do in place now) -- one bolt for lock housing/collar to column (have a make-do in place now)...

Just as an update: One of the parts I was looking for is the CRITICAL "lower bearing snap ring".....searched all over looking for one.... Well, I found the critical "lower snap ring"....in KANSAS for crikees sake.... I got a list of 4 places in the MOPAR database from my dealer that...

After looking a while online it seems that the ebodies collapse at the steering wheel crush can, and not in the column itself. The columns I was originally referring to have a portion of the column tube made from a perforated steel or a steel "net" .....ebody columns are solid. The pic below...

Just realized that while the steering column in my 72 fish has the collapsible steering shaft, the column itself doesnt have the "net" part...its a solid column.... What year did they start using the columns with the "net"? Do I have a really old column or maybe one from a truck or something?

Well, Did some internet sniffing and looked at the manual extra close and then took a look at my column again. Looks like someone replaced the bearing housing and keylock housing with one from a column shift car....seems to me that the column itself is original since it has the (non working)...

I would appreciate it if you could check and let me know what yo uwant for any parts you find.... Yeah, I was digging out those dirt daubers for sure....LOL I found the seal kit on Schumaker.....Right now I just need the floor seal.....$20 aint bad at all for the kit, but seeing as I would...

Sorry! Fixed the image link... I heard elsewhere that many folks remove the lock mechanism for the track so they can shut down quickly without the steering being locked in the event of a stuck throttle etc.....I dont care if the column locks or not...just want to get rid of the slop...I...

Hey Jerry..... Turns out you are spot on....... I am missing a snapring (among other things).....just cant figure out how it goes together gievn the position of my bearing. Well, LOL, now it looks like I need some guts for my steering column -- I removed the column today after...

duplicate post....sorry guys

Yeah, the bolts I figured I could get in a longer size no problem.....its the center piece ....that you screw down against the shaft.....Its a fine thread, large sized piece....

So it turns out that the puller I got, though longer than the others I saw, is still about an inch or so too short...... GGRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR! The service manual calls for chrysler tool c3428B...but I'll betcha that is steep!

How true! I bought a steering wheel/pulley/etc puller kit from harbor freight today...it has long bolts with it that Iam hoping will work with the can on this steering wheel......I want a way to get it off before I put it back on just in case. LOL

Thanks Redfish....

Oh for pete's sake......I am embarassed to say that I didn't see that the circlip was disengaged from the groove... How did I not see that? These old eyes must be getting even poorer than I thought....LOL I guess part of it is that I assumed it was together the way it "should" be...looks like...

Ok....it took some real patience and a little panic on my end (LOL) but got the steering wheel nut I was having trouble with due to messed up threads going on fine now nut wise......I still have to try and see if there is enough thread for the nut to press the wheel can to the shaft...... But...

Awesome....thanks! Will feel a little better now trying to make this work....LOL

Dunno....but if I pukll all the way out on the shaft and then put a pair of vice grips on the shaft where it enters the upper part of the power steering box it is solid... Keep in mind that I dont have the wheel/crush can on yet....could be that the wheel/cruch can is what keeps that slack...

Thanks! I would appreciate that....

Actually I can get the thread file in there..... Just doesnt seem like I am helping matters much....LOL I thought I had the die started but no joy. I guess I want to confirm the size too, if anyone knows....