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On a car…YES! Ceiling white specifically, not just any old white paint; go to a paint store and get Ceiling White, which is practically ideal for the task—it reflects very nearly 100% of the light hitting it. Regular white is down in the 60% range. An example is 'Ceiling Bright White' from...

Local upholstery shop all the way. And twice on Sundays.

PG Classics is a Chinese con artist selling shoddy Chinese garbage. I got bitten hard enough by their poor-quality merchandise and nonexistent after-sale support (we got yer money; why would we talk to you any further?) that I will not purchase from them again.

They're not headrests, they're head restraints. A safety item, not a comfort feature. Your dates are correct.

Sorry, folks. I've emptied out my inbox so there's space. And yes, I still have new non-garbage switches!

Yep, another vote for SEM's products. See my writeups here and here.

Any locksmith can key your door and ignition lock cylinders alike. The trunk lock is different and will take a different key.

Here's another vote for stockinteriors.com . They're an ACC dealer (most carpets on the market come from ACC; how good or bad a customer service experience you have, and how much you pay, depends on the vendor you pick). StockInteriors has never done me wrong.

Dealer (or www.chryslerpartsdirect.com ), part number L716DX9, black, paint to match.

Vacuum metallisation is a shiny, chromelike finish. Some bezels and other trim parts finished that way go through additional steps -- matte spray on certain areas, black paint on certain areas, etc. There are various companies that do dash bezel refinishing. A favorite of many on here, CV...

It was not originally painted. It was originally vacuum-metallised.

'67-'76 4-door seats will be a direct bolt-in, but this is a good opportunity to greatly upgrade the safety belts in this what's going to be a daily driver, by installing Chrysler Sebring seats with built-in 3-point belts. See here (multi-topic post; look for highlighted word "Sebring")

The '70-'71 FPC lists a seat belt warning lamp, part number 2947 931, applicable for Dart and Valiant with no year differentiation '70 vs. '71. Other parts in the same type code group (8-37-75) do show differences between '70 and '71. It would not have been used after 1971; the 1972-up...

Taking out the shoulder belt (or leaving it off) is fine if you wanna eat the steering column in a front-ender. I don't.

'74 was the first year for the "unibelt" combined lap and shoulder belt. The most charitable thing to be said about them is that they're not as godawful as the '72-'73 separate clip-together retractable lap and nonretractable shoulder belts, which in turn were somewhat less godawful than the...

Velour wasn't used in '60; that part of the seats isn't original. You can find original material from SMS, and they can probably match up your velour if you send them a sample.

See here for a photo-illustrated report of my very satisfactory experience with the aerosol products 440abody seems not to like.

Right…be sure and let us know how well those Chinese parts from PG Classic hold up for you.

Careful, all is not great and groovy with PG Classics. See here and here and here.

The only special tool needed is a steering wheel puller. Yes, you need it. No, you can't remove the wheel without it. Remove center ornament. Remove horn button (3 screws) and lift it off. Remove horn switch wire from its terminal and lift the horn switch off. Now you can see the steering wheel...

Had the same with my '73 Dart -- a fight with the belt retractors every time I and my passenger went to belt in. The lock plate tends to get "grabby" with age; lubrication will limber it up. Remove the retractor/reel assembly from its floor mount. Refer to TSB 23-14-73C (pages 1 • 2...

The original '71 belts are an uncomfortable, not very effective, damnuisance mess: three straps and five latch buckles crapping up the front seat. I used to recommend retrofitting 4-point Wesco belts as I did on my '71, but not any more (the article is correct in its facts and physics, and...

I used to recommend retrofitting 4-point Wesco belts as I did on my '71, but not any more (the article is correct in its facts and physics, and everything said about 5-point harnesses is equally true of the 4-point variety, except the injuries that a 5-point can do to your 'nads). When I get...

PG Classic is not a reputable vendor. Their parts are garbage and they don't stand behind them; once they have your money it's "so long, sucka!". See here and here.

Oops, sorry -- I've fixed that first link. I had the front headrests in mind, but the back ones could probably be adapted, too. Not sure what year the rear ones started (sooner in Europe than in America) For the front ones, there are the early, up to '85 or so, and the late, '86ish through '93.

My thoughts as a traffic safety research specialist: If you are doing this for safety and not for cosmetics—and I wholeheartedly endorse this effort to improve the safety of the car—then forget any of the Mopar head restraints (they're not head "rests"). All of them are far too low...

Thanks, guys. I replaced the ignition switch bulb, found the delay unit, replaced it, and still have no ignition switch light. Getting under the dash and fixing this and a few other issues is on the list.

#161 is an utterly standard parts store item. The "T" doesn't mean anything.

IF the core length is correct, but I think the '66-'67 cable (small threaded on one end, big threaded on the other) is longer than the '60-'65 cable.

Not correct. For the '65, he needs the '60-'65 type of cable with a cast aluminum O-ringed end that pushes into the transmission's tailshaft after the small nylon drive pinion and retainer have been installed on the end of the cable. The kind you're describing is for '66-up transmissions.