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Then your problem's elsewhere :-)

But also sounds like something the matter with the front brakes. Maybe it'll clear up once you have a good master cylinder and a proper bleed job…but could also be poor choice of brake pads, brake pads improperly bedded in/glazed, one or more stuck pistons in the calipers… As far as what master...

Still one step larger than optimal. See post linked by S'cuder.

What did you do the first time the booster failed? What did you replace it with or whom did you get to rebuild it? Because if you got on the cruddy-parts bus at any of its many stops, yeah, you'll keep having problems until you get off that bus and onto another. My go-to for many years: Booster...

Why reinvent the wheel or needlessly pay for someone to assemble a "kit"? This isn't complex or difficult. Get this master cylinder, which will bolt on and fit on your existing booster. Get this splitter block. Get some Cunifer line and bend up new master cylinder-to-splitter lines (make a...

DOT 5 is not overall better, it's just different. Regular brake fluid (DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1, in order of increasing boil point) is hygroscopic for a good reason: that way, a fair amount of the water that inevitably enters the system can be chemically sequestered harmlessly, slowing down...

My fault; I linked to the wrong past post; the one with the links to the correct parts you need is here.

Read this, which contains specs and links to the parts you need.

Step-by-step is here

Yep, it is the same. See attached from the '67 FPC. Because that's not how the car was built. Just like on an A-body, the studs protrude forward from the firewall, and the nuts go on the master cylinder. Somebody hacked up your car for some reason; it falls to you to fix it.Start with a good new...

3580 339: 1974 A-body w/drum or disc brakes. Likely also 1975, and quite possibly 1976 models made through 31 December 1975 (brake regs upgraded effective 1/1/76 led to different boosters in many cars as of that date, including the A-bodies). This number does not appear in any FPC prior to 1974.

The dual master cylinder swap is an extremely good idea if you want to live. Get a new master cylinder (this one), don't futz around with "remanufactured" garbage. It'll bolt right in place of your existing single-pot master, and your existing pushrod will work; see here for how to rmeove the...

15/16" is stock. 13/16" is much nicer. All four bore sizes look alike from the outside.

Which wheels lock up? All four, just the fronts, just the rears? The disc brake A-bodies had problems with early/easy rear lockup. The car magazines bitched about it, and so did Consumer Reports; it's a real thing. Chrysler could have fixed it for $0.00/car, but chose not to; fortunately the fix...

You might want to take the opportunity to pick up a set of '76 calipers. They bolt right on. Their larger 2.75" bore ('73-'75s are 2.60") gives more bite to the front brakes, which do most of the stopping job, and reduces rear lockup tendency. Rebuilt calipers are inexpensive off Rockauto.

The one doesn't follow from the other. Most of us don't need much from our brakes (or seatbelts) until we very suddenly, very urgently do. The 9" brakes were passably adequate in their original application on the lightweight '60 Valiant…in sparse, calm '60 traffic. They got a whole hell of a...

See also this.

They might be identical. It's likely they're close enough that any differences would be easy to work around. But before you buy and horse around with steel lines, read this entire thread.

Not a surprise they stopped, though...they would rather you plunk down the cash for their new calipers. That said, there was something not quite 100% about the claim they made about their process. I'm not a plating expert, but I'm pretty sure there's no such a thing as plating stainless steel...

Also: it's super important to make sure the boot grooves are clean-clean-clean on these calipers. I've seen "remanufactured" calipers with compacted rust and trash in the boot grooves, that can be chipped out with a sharp screwdriver. If there's trash in the groove, the boot won't keep out...

Super important to make sure the boot grooves are clean-clean-clean on these calipers. I've seen "remanufactured" calipers with compacted rust and trash in the boot grooves, that can be chipped out with a sharp screwdriver. If there's trash in the groove, the boot won't keep out water, and then...

"Reman" = garbage. Send your originals to one of the outfits that sleeves calipers in brass or stainless steel. Pay a little more now...don't have to mess with them again for a much longer time. (pistons for these calipers are chrome-plated steel)

Real good writeup. I'll add: These cars, with discs up front and 10" drums in back, were well known for scary-easy rear lockup. I took a page out of Chrysler's book and applied the fix they released in 1962 for police cars that were also prone to scary-easy rear lockup: smaller-bore cylinders in...

I think yours is the right way to do it -- use the type of fluid recommended for the application. See also here. And most new cars do not use silicone brake fluid, either.

Or if you want super-premium, get with DMT.

www.cunifer.com

Everything's the same '73 through '75; the combination valve is different in '76. You might look at www.cunifer.com as an alternative to prebent.

Close. It's actually a '73-'75 A-body unit. The '76 boosters are different. Make sure to get a new master cylinder from a reputable brand (Bendix or Raybestos); "remanufactured" ones are garbage. As for the booster, the only ones available through parts store are (again) "remanufactured" junk...

Sounds like you found a suitable donor for parts. To answer your original question: Yes, kinda. This what you describe is similar to the Scarebird disc brake upgrade kits.

Wagner would actually be one of my last choices in brake parts. Quality is generally not as good as Raybestos or Bendix.