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I have also seen the sliders inside the coupling rotated 90 degrees before, adding some slop and an easy fix.

I just drilled the aft torsion bar mount for a set screw. there is so much tension there, doubt it would move anyway.

What brand bushing, had the same issue with stock replacement Moog. Switched to a poly bushing and anchored the torsion bar.

How would an updated torsion bar set up compare against that $30,000 mustang?

How much for your set of 1.03?

Have Bilstein's already, got rid of the KYB. Was looking for a little stiffer spring rate, sounds like the 1.03's are the way to go. A spirited daily driver , and I love to corner. I uess after the torsion bars, will be looking into the Bullitt 17 inch rims for the tires to match the new...

Where you running .92 before installing the 1.03? if so how much difference was there?

Have a 67 Dart with .92 torsion bars. looking to upgrade to the PST 1.03 bars. Has anyone done this?

You can decrease the power steering over sensitive feel by decreasing the pump pressure with a shim in the pump regulator. If going with a new P/S box use a firm feel box, works wonders and is a bolt in. Think AAR Cuda and Challenger T/A.

I hope it weighs heavy on you, starting another damn foolish post.....:poke:

Poly tires with stock rubber bushings work well together, as the softer rubber has a little give to it. If using poly bushings would recommend radial tire and new shocks. Radial tires have the give in the sidewall where poly tires have less give. And stay away from KYB shocks if looking for a...

If I remember correctly stiffer spring rate. also have .92 front bars, front and rear sway bars with firm feel power steering. drives and handles nice.

Used two rights and went to a local spring co and had them de-arched, sits level now

Had rusted front floor pans, so at the same time of the forward floor repair, cut the rear pan and slipped in 2x3 tubing 3 inches into the rear frame and a couple of inches into the forward frame, welded entire length. I do not sit in the back so do not notice the small hump in the rear carpet...

Would update to a 68 or newer idler, there is a Post here somewhere on how it is done, not to difficult and the 68 and newer idler is a lot more common and cheaper

did you ever get the coupler off?

Have you tried a different set of tires on the front? A 1 year old radial tire on my Dart had a belt let go, no obvious damage or bubble on outside of tire. Checked bearings etc. Switched tires from a friends car, problem went away.

Had a front tire that was only 1 year old that a belt gave way in the tire, same symptoms as you described. could not see a bulge on the outside of tire either. tried some one else's tire and all was good. so replaced front tires and no problems since

I road course with mine and have had no issues, the wheel does have finger notches on back side and is thicker than stock

Grant wheel, made my own adapter to fit stock horn button. also matches pistol grip shifter

now would be a good time to upgrade to the C body tie rod ends and sleeve

had poly end links and bushings on front and rear sway bar, with the rear bar being the smallest I could get. rear a little to stiff, ended up switching rear end link bushings to rubber to relax the rear bar a little, the rear does not want to come around as much in a corner as it used to. So I...

Was informed long ago ( can not remember by who) That rubber works well with original type tires because sidewall was stiffer. On radials, since sidewalls are not as stiff go with poly, tends to even out total cornering " give "

have 67 Dart with .92 T-bars, and 2 right SS springs de-arched in the rear for level ride height. Large front sway bar and small rear bar. Poly kit in front, actually took out the poly bushings in the rear bar and put rubber bushes in because the rear of car was to stiff. Bilstein shocks and...

Had same problem when switched over to the spool mounts. Ended up welding a thick washer for the through bolt to hold it up where I needed it. now just need to add a torque strap because the engine lifts to much!

Ran two same side ss springs , de-arched so as to be almost strait under normal loading so it would sit level for street/road racing. with larger torsion bars and Bilstein shocks, works very well.

My 67 Dart is set up pretty good for the 15" rims I am running. Biggest sway bar up front with poly bushings, SS springs de-arched in the back. Actually both are the R/H ones for the same spring rate. Rear sway bar the smallest I could find at the time and still a little to much. As recommended...