How much up/down movement is within spec on a 1967 idler arm? When the steering is turned to the right it just moves straight/smoothly. When you turn back to the left the idler raises about 5/16" to 3/8" & touches the C-body big block oil pan. I'm not sure if I need to cave in the oil pan or just buy an idler.
67 Idler Arm acceptable Movement
- Thread starter GRANCUDA
- Start date
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TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Pretty much none, or as close as you can get it to none.
I'd do the idler first and see what I had.
Some of them have way to much up and down movement right out of the box for my taste, so even if I have to shim it with more washers I will.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
X67 LOL
Not sure of the spec but 5/16 and more is too much. WAY too much
I would sure be lookin to get rid of the 67 idler.
spl440
Everybody's Fool
Would update to a 68 or newer idler, there is a Post here somewhere on how it is done, not to difficult and the 68 and newer idler is a lot more common and cheaper
rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
I'd be interested in that link, too.
I suppose there is a spec in a factory service manual. That idler attaches with 2 ball studs. Total of 5/16 movement is 5/32 from center and that being split between 2 ball in socket assemblies so... I don't know that a brand new one wouldn't be about the same. If my memory serves the spec for a ball joint is about 5/16. That's one ball/socket measured in a lengthwise direction. Maybe they check both ends of this idler in the same manner using a tie rode end spec ? Anyway...
The 68 and later idler arm design rotates on a bolt at one end so less deflection there. That assembly has a rubber spacer which allows some movement.
Upgrade will require, Cut the one clip off the 67 K and weld on the 2 clips ( only way to keep the drag link leveled ). Either fabricate or rob the factory 2 hole clip from a later K. I never see that piece for sale used or reproduction. Good luck
The 68 and later idler arm design rotates on a bolt at one end so less deflection there. That assembly has a rubber spacer which allows some movement.
Upgrade will require, Cut the one clip off the 67 K and weld on the 2 clips ( only way to keep the drag link leveled ). Either fabricate or rob the factory 2 hole clip from a later K. I never see that piece for sale used or reproduction. Good luck
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rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
anybody have pics of this upgrade?
rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
interesting guy. didn't see anything about the idler arm, but I did learn how to make an Atomic Fireball milk shake.
I hate to cut on a 67 383 car K member. Think I'll stick with the 67 style & just make it work. I'll buy a new one & if it moves the same I may just slightly bend the idler a 1/4" down to make it avoid the pan. I've got a solid mount on the passenger side of the motor & shimmed it so it's got about an 1/8" clearance. I would like more though.
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